The Cube

Day 3: Asian side of Istanbul - Ferry to Kadikoy, Camlica Park / Camlica Hill, Camlica Mosque, Uskudar

Officially known as the Sultanahmet Camii (Sultanahmet Mosque) - with beautiful curvaceous exterior, six slender minarets and blue iznik tiles. Unfortunately it was under restoration work during my visit. It was still open to public despite under restoration but majority of the interior was blocked off or covered. Entrance is free and females needed to have their head covered. I carried a scarf in my luggage and forgot to bring a long when I left the hotel. Luckily I was in my hoodie and I was allowed entry with my hood up. 

Hagia Irene or Hagia Eirene, also sometimes known also as Saint Irene, is an Eastern Orthodox church located in the outer courtyard of Topkapı Palace in Istanbul. It is the oldest known church in Istanbul and the only Byzantine church in Istanbul that has not been converted into a mosque. It used as an arsenal for storing weapons until the 19th century. Today, it operates as a museum. 

Sultanahmet Park was the Byzantine emperors venue choice of chariot races. In its heyday, it was decoarated by obelisks and statues, some of which remained in place today. There are descriptions dotted the park to provide further information. I can't find 5, 6 and 7 are missing because I can't find two of them, and one was covered off partly making it difficult to be photographed. 

As I was staying around the area, I walked passed Arasta Bazaar fairly often. I walked passed but didn't buy anything.

A memorial to Süleyman the Magnificent, Süleymaniye Mosque built above the Golden Horn, was the fourth imperial mosque built in Istanbul, has four minarets with 10 balconies. The ground looks out to a great city view. 

Grand, chaotic bazaar was build in 1461 but definitely needs haggling skills to buy things. I got some little bowls and glasses as a birthday present for a friend, and some magnets. Despite my haggling effort, I later found a similar looking magnets from a shop in Galata area selling for a cheaper price point. This is also where I learned lokum (Turkish delight) can be so expensive but the ones I used to see are probably the cheapest range of lokum. 

Grand Bazaar feels more touristy compared to Spice Bazaar but there were a lot of more people in Spice Bazaar. I didn't have any intention to get any spices so I just walked through the bazaar to the other side. 

This 1992 built bridge connects Eminonu to Galata. I spend a fair bit of time looking at the water view against beautiful Istanbul, then walked across to Galata. There were some construction going on and access to certain roads were blocked. It took me a while to find the start to the bridge. I almost wanted to follow some random locals that I observed going on some staircase. Fortunately before I went up the staircase, I noticed that all the locals were men. I later realised that the many staircases leads to a mosque. Phew. 

See those restaurants at the bridge? That's where you can get fish sandwich. 

This 60m high cylindrical tower constructed in 1348 was the tallest structure in the city for centuries. It dominates the skyline north of the Golden Horn. I didn't feel like going up the tower during my visit so I just walked there, took some photos and continued my walk. 

Istiklal Caddesi was once known as the Grand Rue de Pera is Beyoglu's premier boulevard. At the boulevard's nothern end is busy Taksim Meydani. Maybe because this was an avenue so less spread out compared to the Sultanahmet Square, I felt it was very crowded. I was there on a Friday and wonder how on earth nobody seems to need to work. 

It was a very rainy day on the day I went to Kadikoy. The rain stopped on/off but went on for the whole day. On the returned journey, one of the passengers tried to tell me to look at a dolphin, which I missed. I can't remember how much was the ferry fare but can be paid using Istanbulkart. 

I walked to Emimonu for the ferry to Kadikoy. 

In my itinerary plan - I note down to go to Camlica Park / Camlica Hill, Camlica Mosque, Uskudar. What I did was walking around the Kadikoy Market, wandered the Yeldeğirmeni neighbourhood, visited the Kadikoy Bull Statue, had lunch at Ciya Sofrasi, tea at Baylan, strolled the waterfront to see the Kadikoy Lighthouse. I'll write about food in another post.

Balat is an old city on the European side of Istanbul, living on the western shore of the Golden Horn. This historically was the centre of the Jewish community in Istanbul. Many of the houses have been repainted in bright colours and gave a distinctive feel to the neighbourhood. Wandering around this neighbourhood would probably take half a day of easy stroll - Kiremit Street, Phanar Greek Orthodox College and İncir Ağacı Kahvesi.

Got to experience the famous Turkish bath in Türkiye. I chose Istanbul Dream at Cağaloğlu Bath because Cağaloğlu is the last big hammam built in the Ottoman era and has been in continuous operation since it opened in 1741 and still in its original state. Hammam is popular so reservation in advance is required. On confirmation of reservation, I was sent a link to pay half of the full cost. Balance half to be paid during attendance. And.. remember to tip your assigned attendance, I read that it's usually 15% of total price. 

On arrival, I was given an overview of what would happened and if I wanted to additional services like face mask, massages, etc. Then an assigned attendant came to bring me to an individual changing room. I was given slippers, pestemal cloth, disposable underwear and towel. There are different sections for men and women and the attendant is of the same sex. 

"Istanbul Dream" includes 

Another bus ride (TL165), this time 3+ hours got me to Çanakkale. I got to Ayvalık bus station by taxi, based on recommendation from the guesthouse. I took the 13:01 bus and was armed with Ayvalık toast for lunch. I also cabbed from the Çanakkale bus station to the pansiyon also on advice from the pansiyon staff. 

For this stop, I signed up for a day tour that covers both Troy and Gallipoli Peninsula. The morning half of the tour covers Troy, then we took a ferry to the Gallipoli Peninsula, had lunch and continued the tour. There were less than 10 pax in the Troy tour but a full van (maybe 15 people) in the Gallipoli tour. Only 2 other Australian boys and me joined both tours. 

Çanakkale means "pottery castle" and the town was once a centre for the production of high quality kaolin for a flourishing ceramics industry. Today this type of clay is important but Çanakkale made vitreous enamel ware remains as one of Turkey's top export earners. 

This area was first inhabited during the early Bronze Age (late 4th millennium BC). The walled cities are divided from Troy I to Troy IX till around AD 500. The Trojan War was believed to occurred in Troy VII. The city was abandoned by the end of the 2nd millennium BC but reoccupied by Greek settlers in the 8th century BC (Troy VIII). It was identified by the Romans as the fabled city of Homer and Troy prospered under Roman rule. It was abandoned in the 9th century and reoccupied in the later Byzantine period and then deserted in the Ottoman period. 

Many historians doubted the existence of ancient Troy but a German businessman Heinriich Schliemanna was convinced of its existence and received permission from the Ottoman government to excavate a hill near the village of Hisarlik, a previously identified site for the city. Part of the treasures found were smuggled out of the Ottoman Empire and no displayed in a museum in Moscow.

Archaelogists identified the remains of nine separate Troys, where a series of settlements built one of top of another over the course of 2500 years. The guide mentioned that the stones used were different across the different Troy. Excavations work are still ongoing at the site. 

At the initial outbreak of WWI, the Ottomans remained neutral but in October 1914 they joined the Central Powers and closed the Dardanelles, blocking the Allies' major supply route between Britain, France and their ally Russia. 

Allied leaders developed a plan to seize the Dandanelles (the narrowest point of Strait of Çanakkale so that would give them control of Constantinople (current day Istanbul). At the dawn on 25 April 1915, British and French troops landed at Kum Kale near Çanakkale . Further north, a large force of ANZACs (Australia and New Zealand Army Corps) came ashore but met dogged opposition from the Turkish defenders. 

After nine months of ferocious combat but little headway, the Allied forces withdrew in December 1915 and January 1916. The Allied troops landed in a sector where they faced Lieutenant Colonel Mustafa Kemal. 

Both tours were good but the Gallipoli Peninsula is better. I felt like I have attended a great lecture on history. One of the earlier stops begin at Anzac Cove, the narrow stretch of sand beneath and just south of the Ariburnu cliffs where the Allied landed on 25 April 1915. Other stops included Johnston's Jolly, and the Nek and Walker’s Ridge. Plus, honor those who died at Ari Burnu, the Beach Cemetery, Lone Pine Cemetery, the Turkish Memorial and Chunuk-Bair.