Getting to Oslo from Tromsø
We took a flight from Tromsø to Oslo. Oslo Airport is super convenient. We took Flytoget's trains to and fro Oslo Airport and one way ticket cost NOK 210.
The accommodation we booked was close to Oslo Central Station, so we didn't use any other means of transport within Oslo itself. With our limited time in Oslo, we managed to just walkaround the city centre nearby and food were from supermarket and one from MAX burger because we missed it in Sweden.
Akershus Fortress
The fortress was originally built at the end of the 13th century as a medieval royal castle with a seat for the king's representatives, the fortress today functions as Norway's national arena. Throughout its more than 700-year history, Akershus Fortress has survived several sieges, but has never been taken by force by a hostile, foreign army. Entrance to the fortress is free of charge.
From Akershus Fortress we crossed passed The Storting (Norwegian Parliament) Karl Johans gate.
Karl Johans gate is the main street of the city of Oslo. The street was named in honor of King Charles III John, who was also King of Sweden as Charles XIV John. We walked down Karl Johans gate by the National Theatre, all the way to the Royal Palace.
This is an art museum dedicated to the life and works of Norwegian Artist Edvard Munch. We didn't enter. If we do, the only painting I want to see is The Scream.
Oslo Opera House
Of course the Oslo Opera House is the home of the Norwegian National Opera and Ballet, and the national opera house in Norway. However, the difference is that one of the thing to do here is to walk on its roof. The roof of the building angles to ground level, creating a large plaza that invites pedestrians to walk up and enjoy the panoramic views of Oslo.
| Pardon my blur photo |
Side note: Have you ever had matcha mochi brownies?
Polar Night in Tromsø
In school, I learnt the sun rises in the east and sets in the west. In Tromsø I learnt - Polar Night Season. Polar Night Season happens every year in Tromsø and begins on November 27th and lasts until January 15th. However, due to the high mountain ranges around the city, it actually gets dark beginning November 21st until about January 21st. During this time, the sun does not rise at all. There is a subtle twilight light from about 9am to 2pm, but otherwise, the city is dark.
In school, I learnt the sun rises in the east and sets in the west. In Tromsø I learnt - Polar Night Season. Polar Night Season happens every year in Tromsø and begins on November 27th and lasts until January 15th. However, due to the high mountain ranges around the city, it actually gets dark beginning November 21st until about January 21st. During this time, the sun does not rise at all. There is a subtle twilight light from about 9am to 2pm, but otherwise, the city is dark.
Fjord excursion
As we have been lucky enough to catch the northern lights prior to arriving in Tromsø, we didn't sign up for any more tours to aurora hunting. The one other thing we wanted to see in Tromsø are the fjords. As our fjord excursion to Narvik was cancelled, we signed up one in Tromsø. I think this is also a famous excursion among visitors to Tromsø because when we looked up the tours a day before, quite a few companies were already booked out on the days we would be in Tromsø. We booked via the Visit Tromsø website based on offering versus price.
The guide/driver drove us passed Tromsøya, Kvaløya and then stopped at Kaldfjord. We also stopped by briefly at Straumen gård (near Straumsbukta) to see an old farm preserved as museum. Along the drive, we were told if we spotted any roaming wildlife, we could let her know and she could stop by the road side. We spotted reindeers!
Lunch was served at Sommarøy where the guide brought out sandwiches, cookies and made us a warm drink. We also had stops at Kattfjordeidet and Ersfjordbotn for views.
Fjellheisen cable car
We missed the cable car in Narvik so we made it up in Tromsø. We took a public bus to get there but according to google maps, we got down at Novasenteret which needed us to walk 12 minutes uphill. From what we observed, there seems to be another stop nearer to the base of the cable car though I am not sure if the bus we took will stop there. It wasn't far but it was quite a steep uphill walk which was made complicated by the icy path. We were holding on to whatever we can to avoid slipping down. It was hard but we were rewarded with beautiful sky colours.
Tromsø offers great city lights from above. There is a indoor cafe at the top which were full house but we got lucky that a couple were leaving and let us have their seats. I wanted waffle with brown cheese to begin with, we reckoned we should give reindeer meat a try and the couple who offered us their seats recommended the passionfruit cheesecake so that was how we ended up with 3 different dishes.
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| From left, clockwise: Reindeer stew, passionfruit chesecake, traditional Norwegian waffle with jam and brown cheese. |
Tromsø Arctic Cathedral
After getting off the cable car, we walked back to the city centre, partly also because we didn't have internet connection to pre-paid our bus fares.
Tromsdalen Church, also known as Ishavskatedralen (The Arctic Cathedral) was quite hard to be missed. The main entrance on the western side is surrounded by a large glass facade. We didn't enter but just took some photos from the outside before we crossed the bridge to the other side.
Downtown Tromsø
After returning from our fjord excusion, we had some time so we walked around Downtown Tromsø.
| Tromso Public Library |
Ølhallen
One of the recommended place to visit by our fjord excursion guide was this Mack's brewpub and the brewery guided tour. It is one of the the largest tap selection in Europe serving Norwegian quality beers. This brewery is also the northernmost brewery in the world. We didn't make it to the guided tour but we did find time to have a drink at the pub. The only word I know is Øl is beer.
| Christmas beer & blackcurrent cider |
Suvi
Our fjord excursion guide recommended some eating places, the ones I remembered are Mathallen,
Indie & Co and Suvi. There was one that we initially wanted to go to try reindeer meat but because we were going to have an early dinner, they were not yet open for dinner service. I can't seem to remember the name of the restaurant now unfortunately. We did, however, had reindeer stew the next day at the Fjellstua Restaurant, at the top of the Fjellheisen.
We went to Suvi. Usually I am not a big fan of restaurants that sells various cuisines type but this was after all in Tromsø where seafood were abundant. I was skeptical but the sushi and sashimi were superb.
| Cost - NOK 508 |
I woke up randomly in the middle of the night the 3 nights we were in Tromsø to see if there was any chance to spot the northern lights but no luck. I think the lights were spotted in Tromsø the duration we were there though, just not where we were located.
Side note: Why is game update on microsoft so slow :(
The only activity we booked successfully in Abisko with the guesthouse was a tour to Narvik and we planned to commute to Tromso from there instead of returning to Abisko. The booking was successful but the day before the trip we were told that it would be cancelled due to weather condition. According to the guesthouse staff, there would be road closure due to heavy wind so we were refunded. We were, however, told by the staff that commuting by train should not be an issue. This time, we learned and pre-booked our train tickets (SEK 280) on the Swedish train app. So Arctic Circle train happened.
The Arctic Circle Train is the scenic railway that runs through Swedish Lapland to the Narvik fjord in Norway. This legendary night train departs from Stockholm and crosses Sweden to Kiruna, a town in the heart of Lapland, famous for its iron ore mine, the largest in the world. From Kiruna, the Arctic Circle train goes to Abisko. We would've got on this part of the Arctic Circle train if we managed to get a ticket in Kiruna. Anyways, we were onboard from Abisko to Narvik, a port town in Norway. It felt like looking at black and white water colour paintings from the train.
The train ride was only about 1 hour 30 minutes, and sis went and got us coffee from the cafeteria. Train ride, breathtaking sceneries and coffee - great things in life.
We arrived in Narvik around 12:35pm. Our initial plan was to spend a couple of hours in Narvik before taking a later bus which would bring us to Tromsø before 8pm. It was a Sunday on our travel day and most of the shops in Norway were closed. We figured we may have enough time to get to the Narvik Cable Car, there are lockers to store bags in the train station but from memory it needed coins which was one of the reason we didn't leave it before decided not to linger in Narvik.
It was super windy on the day of our travel and we didn't want to risk of bus cancellation so we decided to just take the next available bus at 1:10pm to Tromsø. This round of bus commute takes more than 4 hours and the bus was almost full, so not the most comfortable travel. We paid for tickets on the bus to the driver, NOK 976. It is said that it is cheaper if you pre-buy a ticket. Another rookie mistake of not having enough snacks, we shared a last muesli bar till reaching Tromsø at 5:30pm.
On arriving in Tromsø, we found out that buses within the city does not take payment by credit card in the bus itself. We were cashless, the driver was willing to wait for us to download the Troms Billett to pay for the ticket but our sim card is in sis's phone which was flat. It would take us to long to navigate around this so we got off the bus to avoid holding it up. We walked to the nearest bright shop, dropped our bags and started our activities of swapping sim card, downloading the app, setting up payment and buying bus tickets. Information on bus tickets and fares are here. Another thing to note is that, buses in Tromsø would only stop if you flagged it down, else they don't.
Side note: Where should I go for a long weekend...
This trip happened last December / January, naturally the main reason of this trip was Aurora Borealis. Spoiler alert - the lights were amazing, and it was cold. We did contemplate of driving but are not experience and confident in driving during snow so it was buses, trains, ferry and flights. More days were allocated further north because we wanted to increase the odds of seeing the Northern Lights. While I know it is not a guarantee sighting but I also know I would be very disappointed if I didn't see the lights.
Here's the itinerary for about 3 weeks covering Sweden, Finland and Norway with a day trip to Talinn.
| M: Morning, A: Afternoon, E: Evening, N: Night |
24/12, Day 00: On flight, transit in Qatar.
25/12, Day 01: Arrive in Stockholm* (Castle House Inn)
26/12, Day 02: Stockholm*
27/12, Day 03: Stockholm*
28/12, Day 04: Stockholm. Fly to Helsinki* (Radisson Blu Seaside Hotel)
29/12, Day 05: Helsinki*, day trip to Talinn
30/12, Day 06: Helsinki, overnight train* to Rovaniemi
31/12, Day 07: Rovaniemi* (Airbnb)
01/01, Day 08: Rovaniemi*
02/01, Day 09: Rovaniemi* (Santa's Igloos Arctic Circle)
03/01, Day 10: Departed Rovaniemi to Kiruna*, transfer in Pello (STF Malmfältens Folkhögskola)
04/01, Day 11: Departed Kiruna to Abisko* (Abisko Guesthouse & Activities)
05/01, Day 12: Abisko*
06/01, Day 13: Abisko*
07/01, Day 14: Abisko*
08/01, Day 15: Departed Abisko to Tromso*, transfer in Narvik (Airbnb)
09/01, Day 16: Tromso*
10/01, Day 17: Tromso*
11/01, Day 18: Tromso, flight to Oslo* (Citybox Oslo)
12/01, Day 19: Oslo*
13/01, Day 20: Departed Oslo, transit in Qatar
14/01, Day 21: Arrived Melbourne
*referring to overnight stay
Side note: Looks like I'm behind by 6 months.. hehe




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