Siwa Oasis lies 780 km west of Cairo is related to the Berber languages of North Africa. It evolved as a well-watered stopping point in the desert, on the Haj pilgrimage froute from the coast of northeastern Libyra through to the Red Sea and developed many Berber connections. Siwa covers a large area of date palms and olive trees fed by underground springs. The oasis' population are mostly Berber and the main centre is Siwa town.
Getting to Siwa Oasis
We chose to take the overnight long distance West Delta bus from Cairo. There is an option to get the tickets online through bookaway website but it cost from USD 25 per person one way. Getting a ticket from the bus stop in Cairo cost EGP 480 per person one day (around USD 9). We walked from our hotel at El-Tahrir to Abdelmonem Ryad West Delta bus kiosk at our day 2 in Cairo to buy the bus ticket. There were many kiosks there and it could be a little tricky to differentiate them as there were no signs. We matched the kiosk with photos of buses.
I found this very helpful webpage when I was researching on buses to get to Siwa Oasis. We wanted to get the return tickets at the same time but were told to get it from Siwa. We have met travellers who bought return tickets from the same kiosk though. There were also travellers who bought both the same because the bus seat is the normal short distance bus size, and the distance to the front seat was quite near. The bus we were on was a normal day bus, not those flat-lie big seat kind.
The bus was scheduled at 10:30 pm but we were told to be there at least 30 minutes prior, and departs from where the bus kiosk is and takes about 10-12 hours. We reached around 7ish the next morning. There were a few toilet stops but the toilets were not clean and needs a small payment.
We arrived in Cairo from Luxor, spent the day in GEM and took a bus to Siwa Oasis on this same day.
Things to do in Siwa Oasis
Shali Fortress
Shali Ghadi, an ancient hilltop settlement within the town, is a fort-like tight collection of ruined and slowly collapsing mud-brick houses. The Siwis moved from here after it was severely damaged by unprecedented hevy rains in 1926 and built their houses on the surrounding plains, which now made up the town. We came here the day we arrived Siwa and for sunset before we left Siwa.
Gebel Al-Mawta / Mountain of the Dead
The mountain is less than 1 km north of Siwa town where tombs have been cut out of the rock of a conical ridge. Much of the tombs was destroyed when the tombs were used as shelters during the Italian air raids of World War II. As it wasn't far from Siwa town, we walked there.
Salt Lakes
We asked the owner of the hotel to organise transport to bring us to the salt lakes, Cleopatra's Pool (Ain Juba/Ein Guba), Gabal Dakrur (Dakrour Mountain) and to the nearby desert with bbq dinner. I think the desert is the beginning of Bir Wahid or the Great Sand Sea. This is the sectio of the Saharan sand dunes that stretches westward more than 300 km into eastern Libya. We paid EGP 800 for a tuk-tuk for the day and bbq dinner for two.
Some of the tuk-tuk driver/guide prepared snacks and coffee/tea but ours didn't. In fact, our tuk-tuk driver were trying to fix the vehicle. However, everybody are friends in Siwa and we were invited to share the food and drinks.
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| Small salt lake |
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| Big salt lake |
Umm Ubayda / Amun Temple
The tuk-tuk we were on stopped working and our driver called for help. When one of the guides who we met at the salt lakes passed by, he helped to move our tuk-tuk for a distance, presumbly nearer to a workshop. We were then transferred to his tuk-tuk and he brought us with 4 other passengers to Cleopatra's Spring. On route, we passed by Temple of Umm Ubayd and had a pit stop.
Temple of Umm Ubayd was originally connected to the Temple of the Oracle and dedicated to Amun. The temple was blown up in 1896 to contruct the town's mosque and police building. Only part of the wall covered with inscriptions survives. It is about 200 m away from the Temple of the Oracle.
Cleopatra's Spring / Ain Juba / Ein Guba
The spring's waters are said to have purifying properties. The queen herself was said to have once taken a swim. This circular pool is now enclosed by stone.
Gabal Dakrur / Dakrur Mountain
Our driver re-joined us at Cleopatra's Spring after a short while. We then made a move to Gabal Dakrur which isn't far from Cleopatra's Spring.
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| Gabal Dakrur from Gabal al-Mawta |
Sandboarding and sunset at desert
We departed from the hotel before sunset and had sandboarding before watching then sun set from the dunes. We then walked to where a campfire was set up for dinner.
Aman Yden Hot Spring
As we didn't get around to the hot springs near the desert the day before, the hotel manager suggested that we could go to Aman Yden Hot Spring which was nearer. There were 5 of us - sis and I joined 3 other travellers from Taiwan who stayed in the same hotel. We each paid EGP 100 for entrance to the hot spring plus EGP 500 per person for transport to get there and return.
Most people also go to Fatnas Island for sunset but it didn't sound very tempting to us so we decided to give it a miss. We did, however, went back to Shali Fortress for sunset views.
Blackout and ATM machine
We did a takeaway for dinner the day we arrived in Siwa Oasis. Unfortunately when we got back to the hotel to enjoy our food, there was a black out at the whole of Siwa town. We were told that due to the how water supply was set up, there were also no water during the black out. Luckily after a few hours, electricity and water resumed.
We found 3 ATMs and 2 didn't work. The one that worked, interestingly, was an ATM on a vehicle.
Returning from Siwa Oasis to Cairo
We got our bus tickets from the bus station when we arrived in Siwa Oasis. Ticket was priced at EGP 480 per person, same as the fare we paid for bus ride from Cairo to Siwa Oasis. Bus departed at 7:30 pm. It was another 10-12 hours bus ride. We arrived around 6ish in the morning the next day.
There was a military check at the beginning of the bus ride. Someone made an announcement in Arabic and some people got off the bus. The ones left on the bus were mostly foreigners, possibly because like us, they also didn't understand the announcement. After awhile, someone got back on the bus and said in English that whoever had luggage needed to go and get their luggage for inspection. I got off the bus and retrieved our bags. One of the military guards told me no need to open the bag for inspection when I was about to unlock the bag. Everyone stood with their bags for awhile, and then we were told to store the luggage again. After that, we were on our way to Cairo.
Side note: Orange peel peanuts
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