The Cube: 2026

Egypt: Kom Ombo, Edfu and Esna

April 03, 2026

We splurged and got a private car with driver (EGP 4,750 for the car with driver) to get from Aswan to the accommodation in Luxor via Temple of Kom Ombo, Temple of Horus at Edfu and Temple of Khnum at Esna. Interestingly, we noticed that none of the shuttles we took include lunch break. So this round we prepared lunch to eat in the car.

Kom Ombo

Entrance fee: EGP 450 per person

Kom Ombo is situated 40 km north of Aswan, on a sandy bank where crocodiles once sunned themselves. The ancient city, Ombos has a strategic position in a sweeping bend in the Nile and an important stop on the caravan routes from Nubia to Egypt. It became even more important during Ptolemaic times and with the erection of the Temple of Kom Ombo in the 2nd century BC.

The temple is unique because it is dedicated to two different gods - the falcon headed god Haroeris (Horus the Elder) and the crocodile god Sobek. So the temple has two identical entrances, two linked hypostyle halls and twin sanctuaries.

The columns in the outer hypostyle hall has fine carvings. On the outer walls of the outer temple gallery is a carving of medical nistruments used in ancient times. In the grounds is a shrine dedicated to Hathor, a birthing house and a pool where sacred crocodiles were once kept.

A new addition to the complex is a Crocodile Museum which includes display of mummified crocodiles.

Temple of Horus at Edfu

Entrance fee: EGP 550 per person

We stupidly missed the gate to the temple and hiked up to the town area, asked around and then walked back down.

The Greeks called this Apollonopolis as the sun-god Horus-Apollo was worshipped here as this was spot believed to be where Horus won a major battle with the evil Seth to avenge his father Osiris. There are palm and flower capitals columns and walls decorated with scenes of various festivals - the mock battle commemorating the vitory of Horus over Seth and the joyful annual wedding visit of Hathor. This is a big temple with staircases sometimes leading to nowhere. There was also a room thought to be a laboratory or perfume room, with recipesfor perfumes and ointments carved into the walls.

Falcon-headed god, Horus

The sanctuary of Horus made from black granite, said to be once contained the gold statue of Horus

Temple of Khnum at Esna

Entrance fee: EGP 200 per person

Khnum is an ancient Egyptian creator god, often depicted as a ram-headed man, who was believed to mold humans from Nile clay on a potter’s wheel. Esna, lies 50 km south of Luxor and this small rural town is built over the ruins of Temple of Khnum. A tourist souq leads from the Nile to the entrance of the temple. We were dropped off at end further from the Nile and picked up from the other side.

Only the Hypostyle Hall has been excavated and its foundation level is 8 metres below that of the street. This 24 columns with richly decorated floral capitals was added by the Romans.

Side note: Yo-chi frozen wild berry yoghurt is quite tasty

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Egypt

Egypt: Ramesses in Abu Simbel

March 31, 2026

Nubia, an ancient region in north eastern Africa, extended approximately from the Nile River valley (near the first cataract in Upper Egypt) eastward to the shores of the Red Sea, southward to about Khartoum (in Sudan now), and westward to the Libyan Desert.

Traditionally Nubia is divided into two regions. The southern portion, which extended north to the southern end of the second cataract of the Nile was known as Upper Nubia. This was called Kush (Cush) under the 18th-dynasty pharaohs of ancient Egypt and was called Ethiopia by the ancient Greeks. Lower Nubia was the northern part of the region, located between the second and the first cataract of Aswan; this was called Wawat.

To ancient Egyptians, Nubia was known as Ta-Sety, the Land of Bowmen as the Nubians were famous for their bows. The word Nubia is thought to be originated from the ancient Egyptian word nbw which means gold. Nubia was an important source of ivory, copper and gold for the Egyptians.

We organised the transport to Abu Simbel through our accommodation in Aswan. We paid EGP 1,230 per person for the bus shuttle and the call time was at around 4am in the morning. We bought our tickets online (EGP 822 per person) while queuing in line at Abu Simbel.

Temple of Ramesses II

The four seated 20 metre high colossi

The largest and most magnificent monument in Nubia is the famous Temple of Ramsesses II which was carved out of a mountain face between 1274 and 1244 BC. The rock temple was dedicated to the main gods of Upper and Lower Egypt, Amun-Ra and Ra-Harakhte but also to the deified pharaoh himself.

The temple was salvaged from Lake Nasser and the operation entailed sawing the temple into more than 1,000 transportable pieces and reassembling them at a new site 60 metres higher than the original site. The move took more than five years and the phenomenon of solar alignment was only a day different. Following the reconstruction, the dawn rays of the sun reach into the mountain to illuminate the inner sanctuary striking three statues - Amun-Ra, Ra-Horakhty, and Ramesses II himself. The fourth statue, Ptah, the god of the underworld is left in the dark. This solar alignment happen every year on 22 February and 22 October. The original events were on 21 February and 21 October.

Entering through the temple entrance is the Great Hypostyle Hall that is flanked by eight 10-metre high Osiride statues of the king in a double row facing eatch other against at corresponding number of square pillars.

The detailed reliefs in the temple were amazing. The northern wall is decorated with the Battle of Kadesh, in which the young Ramesses II contronted the Hittites in Syria. The southern wall are decorated with scenes of the king kneeling in front of severa gods.

The Small Temple at Abu Simbel

Next to the temple of Abu Simbel stands a smaller one dedicated to Hathor and Ramesses II's wife, Nefertari. Nefertari was the most beloved of the wives of Ramesses II. The facade of this temple is decorated with statues of himself, his wife and their children. The temple is also dedicated to goddess Hathor, representing love, beauty, music, fertility and joy.

Side note: Harankash

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Egypt

Egypt: Of delayed flight and evenings in Aswan

March 28, 2026

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Egypt

Egypt: Dahshur, Memphis and Saqqara

March 25, 2026

False door

The first pyramid was the Step Pyramid. Djoser's pyramid, at 60 m in height, although substantially smaller than its immediate successors was still an impressive monument. Snefru's first pyramid was the Meidum Pyramid which was originally built as a stepped pyramid. More stones were added to its sides and converted it into a straight-sided pyramid.

Snefru's second pyramid was the Bent Pyramid. It was originally called the Southern Shining Pyramid. The angle of its sides was reduced during construction, perhaps due to concerns that it might collapse.

Snefru's third pyramid have shallow slopes, like the Bent Pyramid. The Red Pyramid was made of sandstone and originally encased in whte Tura limestone. It is the largest pyramid of the Dahshur necropolis.

The Step Pyramid

→ The Meidum Pyramid

→ The Bent Pyramid

→ The Red Pyramid

→ The Great Pyramid

→ The Khaefre Pyramid

We took the easiest way to get there by booking a trip from the hotel reception, at USD 60 per person including lunch but excluding entrance and car fees. The 'tour' came with a driver and a guide but the guide didn't say much. We started with the Red Pyramid in Dahshur.

Imhotep, not the character in The Mummy is seen as the first engineer, architect and physician in history as well as being a high priest and official of King Djoser. He was credited as being the architect of the Step Pyramid.

Dahshur

Dahshur is a royal necropolis located about 40 km south of Cairo, renowned for hosting Old Kingdom pyramids built by Sneferu. It features the Bent Pyramid (transitioning from steep to shallow angle) and the Red Pyramid (the first successful smooth-sided pyramid), which provided the engineering knowledge for the Giza pyramids.

Red Pyramid

The Red Pyramid's name derives from the material that was used to construct the pyramid, red limestone. The entrance ticket to Dahshur included both the Red Pyramid and the Bent Pyramid. This same ticket allowed one to enter the pyramids. At the time of visit, we paid EGP 425 for the 2 of us and car.

It was sandy and looked blurry from afar

It started with climbing up to the wooden platform to the entrance. From there, it was a descent. It was a little low towards the end.

Followed by a short tunnel before reaching to a chamber with good ceiling height and fairly spacious. I thought we still a long way to go and took off my hoodie at this point.

Then there were some wooden staircases to go uphill. After that, it was the end to the tomb. There were no sarcophagus at the tomb, just a pile of rubble stones.

Bent Pyramid

The Bent Pyramid has a 54-degree slope of its sides and changes halfway up to an angle of 43 degrees. We entered this pyramid too, well, it was included in the general entrance ticket. This one, by far, has the longest descending tunnel at 79 metres. The internal beams inside the Bent Pyramid was said to be cedar trunks imported from Lebanon.

Similar to the Red Pyramid, it started with climbing up to the entrance via some wooden staircases.

It also started with a long descent, followed by a series of wooden staircases inside the pyramid.

The end of the walk was also an empty tomb with some bats hanging on the walls.

What goes down must come up, going in and out is through the same way. At certain point, we did have to stop to let people coming in to pass but it was much less crowded comparatively. I think the long descent might have dissuaded some people to go all the way.

The shorter steps before the long ascend on the way out

Memphis

Memphis is located in the center of the floodplain of the western side of the Nile. Its fame comes from its being the first Capital of Ancient Egypt, the first one that was founded after the unification of upper and lower Egypt. The city was founded by King Narmar in the first dynasty (3100 BC) and located 20 km to the south of Cairo. The name of Memphis is driven from the ancient Egyptian name given to the city, it was called Min-Nefer, and the Greeks called it Memphis, today is the location of a local village called Mit Rahina.

Entrance fee: EGP 200 per person

There is an open air museum now at Memphis which houses the Alabaster Sphinx and one of Ramesses' two colossi.

Saqqara

Saqqara lies on the desert plateau about 3 km west of Memphis. This vast cemetery, which spans a period from the 27th century BC to the 10th century BC, is possibly named after the god of the burial sites, Sokar.

Entrance to the Djoser funerary complex

Step Pyramid of Djoser

Dominating the whole area is the Step Pyramid of Djoser, the earliest of all the pyramids and the first great monument in the world to be built of hewn stone. The entire complex was the conception of Imhotep. General ticket for Saqqara and car cost EGP 1225 for the 2 of us. Entering the Step Pyramid needs a separate ticket and we skipped this.

There is a small stone annexe at the rear of the Step Pyramid, known as the serdab, contains a non original statue of the king looking out at the world through two eye holes cut in the wall.

There are two 6th-Dynasty mastabas, tombs of Mereruka and Kagemni, viziers of King Teti (2345-2333 BC) next to the Pyramid of Teti, at the northeast of the Djoser Complex. These tombs contain a very oustanding tomb reliefs of the Old Kingdom. The wall were carved with lively scenes of domestic life, interests and pursuits of the Old Kingdom nobility like hunting, horticulture, husbandry, music, dancing, etc.