The Cube

Petra, an ancient Nabataean city forgotten for centuries until it was discovered by Swiss explorer Jean Louis Burckhardt in 1812. I was in awed, standing and staring up at Al-Khazneh. It was like a dream.


Getting to Wadi Musa from Queen Alia International Airport
Wadi Musa is a town in Ma'an Government and the nearest town to Petra. I touched down just passed 12pm and tried to get to the south bus station (Mujamma Janoobi /Alwehdat) before 2pm. 2pm because I read that minibuses are less frequent after. Even though minivans are said to to run the whole day but if there are no passengers, they would not run.

I took a taxi from the airport to the south bus station and paid JOD 25. I probably paid a little too much for this as I didn't see the counter for airport taxi which I read cost JOD 22 and went a driver with Avis car rental. My attempt to haggle for JOD 3 lesser wasn't successful and thought the price may have inflated a little and didn't push it harder, plus my haggling skill is really subpar.

Anyway, I got to the bus station at 1:17pm and the bus departed at 1:44pm. The taxi driver, Saed sent me right to the front of the minibus but on our journey there, he told me that his friend who lives in Wadi Musa was in Amman and would take JOD 25 for a taxi trip. That was a good deal as usually it could cost around JOD 85. Considering it was JOD 25 vs JOD 7, I chose the minibus.


Arriving at Wadi Musa, I got off the minivan with 2 other travellers just across the road from P Quattro Relax Hotel. I loaded up Google maps but the streets to Petra Rest Home looked a little confusing and I didn't want to spend too long wandering in the streets. The sun has set, it was winter after all. So I walked into P Quattro Relax Hotel to reconfirm on how to get to the accommodation I booked. The staff who was manning the front counter was super helpful and kind, he looked up the guesthouse and directed me.

On my way to Petra Rest Home

Getting in to Petra
If you hold a Jordan Pass, remember to show your pass at the ticket counter to get an actual ticket. This is the only site I went to that needed me to get Petra ticket, the rest only asked to view Jordan Pass which I just showed the mobile pass.

Free guide map from Petra

Trails in Petra
There are 8 different trails on the Petra guide map that I picked up from the Visitor Center.
1. Main Trail - as per the name, the main trail that leads to the heart of Petra
2. Al-Khubtha Trail - branching from the Royal Tombs, trail leading to view of the Treasury from above.
3. High Place of Sarifice Trail - this branch out from the main trail, going to the High Place of Sacrifice Trail, rounding back near the Great Temple
4. Ad-Deir (Monastery) Trail - continuation from main trail that leads to Ad-Deir, the Monastery
5. Umm Al-Biyara Trail
6. Jabal Haroun Trail
7. Sabra Trail
8. Al-Madras Trail

I did trail 1, 2 and 4 on my first day and trail 3 on second day. As you can see there are 4 other trails that I didn't do so Petra is huge!

The photos below were taken across two days, at different time of the day.


Main Trail
Approximate round-trip walking distance: 8 km / 5 miles
Duration (walking): 3.5 - 4 hours
Level of intensity: Easy

From entrance gate, you would be asked if you want a "taxi" or "ride", both referring to horse or donkey riding. They won't insist if you refused. Very shortly after you passed the entry gate, there would be a big change of scenery, as if you suddenly stepped into a film scene setting, only that these are real.


This is the stretch from entry gate to the Siq, along the way you will see massive Djinn blocks which are squared monuments. Also along the way is this Obelisk Tomb from 1st century AD.

Obelisk Tomb, from 1st century AD

Then the open surrounding changed into a path flanked by narrow gorge, the beginning of the Siq.


This natural splitting of mountain forming an exclusive 1.2km long walkway into Petra. I didn't really know how long this would be and I am terrible in estimation of distance so each turn was really a surprise.

Horseback, donkey back, camel back or carriage

Camel caravan

... at the last turn giving sneak peaks of what's at the end!


Possibly the most famous treasury in the world, Al-Khazneh.


The Treasury (Al-Khazneh / Al Khazna) is indeed the most spectacular monument carved by the Nabataeans. It was carved out of a single block and stood 39.5m tall. A local Bedouin legend has it that a pharaoh hid a treasure in the urn at the top, hence the name. It is, however, a mausoleum like many other monuments in Petra. It is believed that this is the mausoleum of King Aretas IV (9 BC - 40 AD).

If you have heard of Indiana Jones, one of the shooting scene for the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade was at Al-Khazneh.

There is an unofficial trail to viewing Al-Khazneh from above if follow the rest of people and walk to your right (facing the Treasury).

This is where you start climbing, next to Al-Khazneh

The trail isn't very clear cut and felt more slippery to my clumsy self so please be careful. At the very top, I believe is a teahouse. In fact, probably all the signs that read "best view of ..." is actually leading to a teahouse. I didn't go all the way to the top, stopping at the first landing.

Spot the man at the top

Spot the man at the top to gauge how high up you can go. Here's another photo of Al-Khazneh taken at the first landing of this unofficial trail. It is about at eye level-ish.


Moving beyond Al-Khazneh one would arrived at the Street of Facades. This stretch of street showcases a row of Nabataen tombs


The next "pit stop" would be where the Main Trail branch out to High Place of Sacrifice Trail but continuing on the Main Trail, we will see the Theatre. This theatre was carved into the side of the mountain at the foot of High Place of Scarifice.

Taken from viewpoint at Al-Khubtha trail

I actually didn't notice the Nymphaeum when I first walked passed it because there was a stall selling souvenir in front of this semi-circular public fountain. Plus there were also some tired tourists taking a rest under the shade of a 450 years old wild pistachio tree.


Right after, you will hit Colonnaded Street. This street represent the main shopping streets of ancient Petra, and later Roman.


On one side of the street is the Great Temple and on the opposite, a little up a hill is the Church.

Great Temple

A little different from the rest of the monuments, the Church was covered to protect the floor mosaics.

The unassuming Church

Just a little further is the last monument on the Main Trail, the most important temple of Petra, a squarish Qasr al-Bint.



Ad-Deir (Monastery) Trail
Approximate round-trip walking distance: 2.5 km / 1.6 miles
Duration (walking): 2.5 - 3 hours
Level of intensity: Hard

Aside from the Main Trail, the most popular trail must be this one, the one to the monastery. A friend who visited before said that it was a hard climb and she had to use both hands to climb up so I had the impression of it being a really tough trail. Fret not, it wasn't as hard but it was a busy trail indeed and needing to make way for donkeys too.

The trail continues from the Main Trail, next to The Basin Restaurant. When I first read about Petra for information I was always wondering what is The Basin, so it turned out to be a restaurant.

Closer to the start of the trail, detour a little to see the Lion Triclinium. It got it's name from the 2 lions carving that flanked the entrance.


To get here from the Ad-Deir Trail, you'll have to pass under a boulder.

This is taken from Lion Triclinium going back to Ad-Deir trail

There isn't any other monuments along the way up to the Monastery but the view was great! I sent a random photo of this trail to a group chat with my friends with caption, "lunch view today" and one of my friend replied "it looked like Jordan". I am most impressed, didn't think it is so obvious especially when there wasn't any monument in the photo that I sent.

Walk or ride?

Many steps and uphill trail later, the reward at the end is Ad Deir (the Monastery). It is said that the hall was later re-used as a Christian chapel and there were crosses carved into the rear wall, so it was named the Monastery.

If you are too young to hear of Indiana Jones, maybe you have heard of Transfromers: Revenge of the Fallen where one of the scenes was filmed at the Monastery.


Right opposite the Monastery is a cafe/restaurant. I wanted to find a shady spot to have my lunch box from the guesthouse (JOD 7) which consisted of a sandwich, a cake, combination of 3 fruits (apple, orange and/or banana), a bottle of water and a packet of box drink. It was very windy when I was there, so not an ideal time to eat when I need to protect my face and food from the flying sand.

If you don't want to eat at a paid establishment, there is somewhere you can climb to get a view just slightly next to the cafe. When I was there, there was a local resting at this covered area. Further behind is a viewpoint and of course a teahouse right at the top.

From the viewpoint with the Monastery on the left

I stopped midway on my way down the Ad Deir trail to have my lunch. Lunch view was amazing.

Actually I did the Al-Khubtha trail prior to finishing the Main Trail because I accidentally de-tour to the Royal Tombs after the Theatre. If you have done both the Main Trail and Ad-Deir trail, and still want to continue, you can return to the Royal Tombs followed by the Al-Khubtha trail. I did 3 trails on my first day because I was early. Thanks to jetlag, I was already in Petra just after 6am.


Al-Khubtha Trail
Approximate round-trip walking distance: 3.5 km / 2.2 miles
Duration (walking): 2.5 - 3 hours
Level of intensity: Hard

This trail was far more quieter than Ad Deir trail and no need to avoid donkeys, but possibly because I was early when I did it. It made this trail much enjoyable.

Before you start on the Al-Khubtha trail, do visit the Royal Tombs that is made up of Urn Tomb, Silk Tomb, Corinthian Tomb and Palace Tomb.

Inside one of the Royal Tombs

Going around the Royal Tombs after visiting them, you will soon reach the Al-Khubtha trail. There are signs to indicate the trails so most people do these trails (the ones I've done) without a guide.


Al-Khubtha also starts with a series of steps, like this.


There are 3 different panoramic view reward at the top.


A short walk from here will be bring you back to viewing the magnificient Al-Khazneh but from above.

Featuring my trusty boots

There is a free spot to enjoy the view but a little away from here, possible a more front view of Al-Khazneh. However you'll need to pay for a drink at a teahouse, of course.

Then I returned to catch a panoramic view of the Theatre.


I returned to the guesthouse after this as the weather wasn't great so it was not confirmed if Petra By Night would run as scheduled, also I made reservation for dinner at the guesthouse. I did, however, returned for Petra By Night after though!


High Place of Sacrifice Trail
Approximate round-trip walking distance: 3 km / 1.9 miles
Duration (walking): 2.5 - 3 hours
Level of intensity: Hard


See... another trail that starts with steps. Up and up to the High Place of Sacrifice.


Petra is so big that this trail almost feel like it is at another location. High Place of Sacrifice is right at the top on a mountain plateau. At the last part, you'll have to walk up a small hump. This place of worship is at the third hump. On the day I was there it was rainy and windy making it a little scary. There is a less scary way to go up if you go around to its left and go up from there.



Rainy and windy but still excellent view at the top.

Teahouse at the top of the mountain

The fun thing about the High Place of Sacrifice trail is that you don't have to backtrack all the way till Main Trail again. All you need to do is walk back to where the sign indicate Wadi Farasah and follow that.

Mountain goats showing off to me how to go downhill gracefully

On this trail, there is the Lion Fountain and Garden Hall.

Lion Fountain

I spy with my little eyes - the Garden Hall

This trail will bring you back to behind Qasr al-Bint. My lunch spot for day 2 was close to the start of Jabal Haroun/Sabra/Al-Madras trails. From the map, all 3 trails starts from a similar point but branched out after.


Petra was way beyond expectation and blew my mind away. Yes, it is expensive but definitely worth a visit.



Side note: If you scroll all the way to the end of this really long post, thank you! ^^

Approaching Jordan

1. Jordan Pass
This is probably the first thing anyone starts reading when one plans a trip to Jordan. Citizenships from a few countries are exempted from paying visa fees that cost at least JOD 40 (single entry, valid for 1 month). The list includes Malaysia.

Jordan Pass waives tourist entry visa fees if one stays a minimum of 3 nights (4 days). This is a huge savings if you need to pay for visa fees and you are travelling to Petra.

I decided to get the Jordan Pass because after calculating the costs, I still saved some money due to other attractions I visited, even though it is not as significant. I bought Jordan Explorer for 2 consecutive visit days to Petra (JOD 75) but didn't add on option of Bethany Beyond the Jordan (Baptism Site) with extra JOD 8. Ticket cost at site is JOD 12, so if you are planning to visit Bethany Beyond the Jordan, then it is worth to add on when you get your Jordan Pass.


2. Jordan is expensive to visit
Jordan, unfortunately is one of the most expensive country in Middle East region. I live in Australia and as a visitor to Jordan, I find it more expensive than Australia. The single most expensive item would be entrance fee to Petra. 1 JOD = USD 1.41 = AUD 2.05 = MYR 5.72


3. Local buses


Local "buses" mostly are in the shape of minivans, rather than big buses. The catch is that there is no fixed schedule. The buses depart when full. I was on a big bus in Jerash to get back to Amman, the bus did depart before full but it almost felt like the bus driver is in "fear of missing out" mode. The bus moved a couple of inches for maybe 10 times before finally departed.

I noticed that the bus conductor would ask men to vacate their seat if a woman get on the bus and there was no available single seater. As a female travelling solo, I always pick a single seater. When there wasn't any, pick one that is next to another female.

The few times I took buses from Amman, I told the taxi driver where I wanted to go and the taxi driver would bring me to the right bus.

Not only that, be mindful that local transport may stop their service earlier or do not run on Fridays.

Another option of bus is via JETT (Jordan Express Tourist Transportation) bus. This one runs on specific schedule. Please bring along your passport to purchase a ticket and book in advance. 


4. Taxis
I find that taxi drivers who engaged me first usually refused to use the meter. The ones I flagged down on the street used meter. If you arrived at a bus station, follow the locals and walk out to the main street to flag down a taxi. Don't worry about not able to get a taxi in Amman, there were many taxis on the street!

The day I arrived in Amman, I went with the taxi driver who approached me and paid JOD 4.50. I haggled it down to JOD 4 before getting into the taxi but I didn't have small change so I paid JOD 5. He only gave a JOD 0.50 change. Even at JOD 4, it is considered too expensive. On average, metered taxi cost around JOD 2 to 2.50 around Amman.

Alternatively, you can try Uber or Careem.


5. Public toilets

Toilet fee at Karak Castle

All the public toilets I went at tourist attractions were free of charge, except the one at Karak Castle. Yes, even the toilets in Petra were free but foreigners were charge 70 fils to use toilet outside of Karak Castle.


6. ATM fees
I tried at least 3 different banks - Bank of Jordan, Arab Bank and Jordan Ahli Bank (plus another one that I cannot remember). All charged a fee for withdrawal. The lowest fee of the three was Arab Bank, at JOD 3. For me, it was still at a better rate compared to rates in money changers with inclusion of bank fee.


7. Water 
I used tap water for brushing teeth, etc but only drank bottled water. It cost me JOD 1 at Petra, but JOD 0.50 in Aqaba and Amman. The camp I stayed in Wadi Rum provided water for free. The hotels in Aqaba and Dead Sea also provided complimentary bottled water.


8. SIM card
I'm a cheapskate and usually just use free wi-fi when I travel. This trip was the first time I bought a mobile phone SIM card when I travel, because I can't speak Arabic and Middle East's safety reputation so thought it may be a safer option to get one.

I found this brilliant webpage on options of mobile plans. From the site, the best value plan is Zain but I bought the Umniah Tourist 10-Days plan simply because I was only in Jordan for 10 days. 10GB of internet bundle is more than enough for me in that period of time so I chose to spend JOD 10.88 instead of JOD 18.50

The reception was good in cities. The only place where I didn't get reception was in Wadi Rum but there was wi-fi at the camp I stayed.


Side note: Just a week to Lunar New Year!

The ones who knew would uttered the word, "Indiana Jones" upon learning that I was making my way to Jordan. The ones who didn't asked, "Why Jordan?"

Then came the question, "Is it safe to travel to Jordan?" This is a reasonable question in terms of both geographically and as a solo female traveller. Comments I received range from "Wow, how exciting!" to "I hope your manager doesn't approve your leave so you don't get to go." I know they meant well but ouch.

But how can one not heard of Al-Khazneh, possibly the most famous treasury in the world? That's enough reason for anyone to make their way to this country in Middle East. However, there is more to Jordan than meets the eyes. Jordan is amazing and exceeded my expectation.

This post came because I went to Jordan and returned safely during the company's compulsory leave over Christmas and New Year period by myself. The singles are not interested, the married ones can't go.

On the geographical and country safety aspect, Australia's smart traveller website advice "Exercise a high degree of caution" during my visit. As for safety as a visitor, I've done my share of googling around "Is Jordan safe to travel to as a solo female traveller?" After reading through all the articles, blog posts I feel comfortable that I can manage my safety before making a decision to travel to Jordan.

Overall, I find Jordan safe as someone who had just returned from solo travelling. Jordanians are helpful, kind and friendly. I'm grateful for the locals who gave me a lift and didn't charge me for it, the Jordanian lady who kept an eye on me in the bus and gestured me to follow her when the bus broke down in the middle of journey, the man who brought me to the correct bus to commute back to Amman.

Regardless, as usual please be mindful of the scams, when walking in dark or quieter areas and stay vigilant. I did encounter an incident with a taxi driver in Amman, and will write about it later.

Here is my itinerary for 10 days in this spectacular country.

N: night, M: morning, A: afternoon, E: evening

23/12, Day 00 - On flight
24/12, Day 01 - Arrived in Amman, take bus to Wadi Musa/Petra* (Petra Rest Home)
25/12, Day 02 - Petra*
26/12, Day 03 - Petra*
27/12, Day 04 - Bus to Wadi Rum* (Wadi Rum Legend Camp)
28/12, Day 05 - Bus/Taxi to Aqaba* (Amir Palace Hotel)
29/12, Day 06 - Bus to Amman* (Gallery Guest House)
30/12, Day 07 - Amman*, day trip to Jerash
31/12, Day 08 - Amman*, day trip to Kerak Castle
01/01, Day 09 - Madaba, Mount Nebo, Bethany Baptism Site, Dead Sea* (Movenpick Resort & Spa Dead Sea)
02/01, Day 10 - Afternoon flight to Melbourne
*referring to overnight stay


Side note: Craving for nuggets...