China

Tibet: Ngari Prefecture - Ruins of Guge Kingdom and Tholing Monastery

By Cubie - July 16, 2025

Start: Zanda

1. Guge Kingdom Ruins 古格王国遗址

2. Tholing Monastery 托林寺

3. Serkhang Chorten

End: Zanda

Guge Kingdom Ruins 古格王国遗址

Guge Kingdom started in the 10th century by the descendants of the Tobo Kingdom. Tobo Kingdom fell apparat following civil after Lang Dharma was assassinated. The great grandsons of Lang Dharma, Jide Nyimagon led his followers to Ngari and set up the Guge Kingdom.

The 3 sons of Jide Nyimagon and their descendants later set up 3 sections of his kingdom. Rikpa Gon took over Ladakh, Tashi Gon took over Purang and Detsuk Gon took control of Guge.

The region had a glorious past and at its peak, the regime extended to Kashmir and today's Pakistan. There are many debates on how Guge Kingdom disappeared. One of them was that the last king and family of Guge Kingdom were captured resulting in the declined and disappearance of the great Guge Kingdom.

About 20 km to the west of Zanda is Tsaparang, the capital of the ancient Guge Kingdom in the 15th century. The monastery complex is located in the valley while the king's fortress stands on top of the hill. There are surviving buildings of the monastery complex with beautiful murals inside.

Tsaparang was a rather large capital with several thousand people living there at the time and along the way of traders between Central Tibet and India. Unfortunately, continuous conflicts between Guge kings and the neighbouring Ladakhi Kings caused the deterioration of Guge Kingdom.

On entering the site, the first chapel is the White Tara Chapel. It served as a private chapel of the Regent of the Guge Kingdom. Not far behind, on the right side of the complex was Lhakhang Karpo or the White Temple. On the same side after a few steps was Lhakhang Marpo (Red Temple).

To get to the Guge Kingdom Ruins, one has to take eco-bus from the visitor center and return the same way.

White Tara Chapel on the left, White Temple and Red Temple

Tholing Monastery 托林寺

Tholing Monastery was founded by Guge Kingdom's King Yeshe O together with the famous Tibetan translator Rinchen Zangpo. King Yeshe O was the son of Detsuk Gon.

To reestablish Buddhism's standing in Tibet, King Yeshe O sent twenty-one young and bright Tibetans to study in Kashmir. Unfortunately, only two out of these nineteen students survived the foreign climate, disease and other conditions. The two students were Rinchen Zangpo and Drakjor Sherab who returned and set up monasteries.

This monastery was actually very near to the hotel that we stayed in but we didn't realise and left our belongings in the van. The guide rang the driver to pick us up to go back to the hotel even though it was really near.

Serkhang Chorten

A few steps east of the Tholing Monastery compound in Zanda is the recently restored Serkhang chorten. Towards the side, the cliff falls away to the Sutlej River. We were told to come during sunset.