The Cube

We fly from Stockholm to Helsinki even though we are aware that overnight ferry is a popular mode of transport. We planned for a day trip to Tallinn by ferry, also overnight Stockholm - Helsinki ferry usually departs at around 4:45pm and arrive the next day at 10:30am. Ferries to Tallinn depart before 10:30am and we have an overnight train on the other day we have in Helsinki. The other factor in play was possibility of sea sickness. 

Getting out of Helsinki Airport to our accommodation in Helsinki was easy. We each bought an ABC zone ticket, €4.10 per person and ABC zone single ticket is valid for 90 minutes, enough time for us to get a tram transfer from city center to the hotel. Up till this point, we haven't seen any snow fall yet in this trip. A lot of rain but no snow. 

We went to Talliin the next day on arrival in Helsinki but we have till evening the day after to roam around Helsinki. Prior to the trip, we only have 4 items in things to do - Suomenlinna, Uspenski Cathedral, Helsinki Cathedral and Porvoo. We managed 3 out of 4 as Porvoo is an hour away by train. 

We got a day ticket on arrival back from Tallinn, the validity of the ticket is 24 hours so it would end right when we need to get to the train station the next day. 

Helsinki Cathedral is located in the centre of Helsinki at Senate Square. It was originally built from 1830 to 1852 as a tribute to the Grand Duke of Finland at the time, Tsar Nicholas I of Russia. So it was previously known as St Nicholas's Church but the name was changed in 1917 after the independence of Finland. 

It was the nearest stop to get to Suomenlinna ferry from our hotel in Helsinki so naturally, we walked over to have a look before walking towards Suomenlinna ferry. 

Not far from Helsinki Cathedral, at the hill on the Katajanokka district lies the Uspenski Cathedral. This is the main cathedral of the Orthodox Parish of Helsinki. The red brick facade is striking and noticable even when you are standing around Senate Square. 

On return from Suomenlinna, we wandered around the city before grabbing an early pizza dinner then went back to the hotel to collect our bags. We took an overnight train to Rovaniemi. 

We stayed at Radisson Blu Seaside Hotel in Helsinki which is near to the ferry terminal (West Harbour T2) to Tallinn - 10 minutes by tram or 20 minutes by foot. Unfortunately we found out that there isn't any ticket machine at the tram stop nearest to us so we walked to the ferry terminal. The point of the story is - not all tram stop has a ticket machine. 

This is afterall international border crossing from Finland to Estonia, so best to carry along the necessary documents like passport, though we have not been asked to show our passports. 

The cheapest ferry ticket we found is via Eckerö Line at the time of our travel. Single Helsinki - Tallinn return adult ticket cost €19. Ferry departed Helsinki at 09:00, arriving Tallinn at 11:15. Return ferry departed Tallinn at 18:30, arriving back in Helsinki at 21:00. 

We bought our ticket online on arrival in Helsinki, the evening just a day prior. Latest boarding time was 30 minutes before departure. The process was simple, just needed to scan the electronic ticket, pass the turnstill, get into the ferry and find a seat to your preference. 

We saw some comfy seats at one of the many cafes which turned out to be one that hosted bingo games midway. Participation was optional. 

The ferry docked at Vanasadam Old City Harbour. There were buses to the Tallinn Old Town but most people walked. We followed the rest of the visitors on foot, it was an easy stroll of about 20 minutes. 

As you entered the gate into Tallinn's Old Town, the Lower town features quaint, meadering cobblestone streets and gabled houses. 

Tallinn's Town Hall Square is the center of this old town since the Middle ages. In winter it houses Tallinn's Christmas market and we were very lucky that in during our visit, this Christmas market runs end of November till early January. It is one of the few Christmas markets that are run passed actual Christmas day. 

Just behind the beautiful Christmas tree is the Town Hall building, built between 1402 and 1404. At the end of the square is the Raeapteek, the oldest pharmacist in Tallinn and one of the oldest in Europe.  

One of Tallinn's most iconic landmarks, the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral marked your arrival to Toompea as this church was completed in 1900 sits on top of the Toompea Hill. This Russian Orthodox church dates back to the old Russian empire and comprises 11 bells including Tallinn's largest bell weighing 15 tonnes. 

Kiek in de Kök 

Kiek in de Kök Fortification Museum forms a museum complex over 500 metres long that includes four towers - Kiek in de Kök, Maiden's Tower, Tallitorn Tower, and the Gate Tower of the Short Leg (Lühikese jala väravatorn). The fortification museum also includes access to underground bastion passages and exhibition on overview of past warfare. Tickets allows access to go up to the towers and the walk between them. 

In front of this museum complex is the Danish King's Garden. Found this page that provides some info to as why it is named Danish King's Garden. 

There are also a couple of viewing platforms to check out - Kohtuotsa viewing platform and Patkuli viewing platform. 

We packed breakfast and ate them onboard ferry to Tallinn and stopped for lunch in Tallinn. Sis listed down a pancake bar to try in Tallinn - Kompressor but were not feeling pancakes and wanted more hot food. We saw a Ukrainian restaurant - Odessa nearby to where we were then and popped in for lunch. Not in picture was Ukrainian red borsch with sour cream and buns "pampushka", and somewhat in photo - glögg. Food was very delicious and hearty. 

We were not organised enough to have also packed dinner, so we got sandwiches to share onboard and slept most of the trip back. Most people stocked up on alcohol from Tallinn to bring back to Helsinki though. It finally snowed when we arrived back to Helsinki. 

We arrived in Stockholm at noon on Christmas Day. There are plenty of options to get to the city center, from bus to trains. After weighing the cost, time of travel and convenience, we opted to take a taxi (SEK 695). I don't know how things pan out that we ended up walking everywhere once we get to the Gamla Stan area from the airport. We have 2 full days in Stockholm, a half on the day we landed and another half before we departed. 

As we landed on Christmas Day itself, we have missed the Stockholm Christmas Market. Here are the things we did, saw or ate when we were there. 

Gamla Stan, or the Old Town is Stockhom's original city centre. The buildings are from 1600s and 1700s. There were closed stalls for the Christmas Market for a few days, and were only removed a day before we left Stockholm. The removal process took pretty much the whole day. Most of the shops here are cafes, restaurants, tourist shops, studios and galleries. 

Sis and I were insistent that we have a Swedish Christms dinner and finally found out that was within budget and available on or after actual Christmas day. We wanted to go on Christmas Day itself but they were closing when we returned a short walk. It wasn't late, maybe around 6ish but it was a Christmas Day after all. We returned to the same shop on Boxing Day, and luckily they still serve the Christmas Plate. 

Components in the Christmas Plate were 2 kinds of herring, cold smoked salmon, homemade meatballs, beetroot salad, Swedish "Skagenröra" (shrimp salad), cheese from northern Sweden, boiled potatoes, egg, hard bread, onion and sourcream, SEK 295. 

We also ordered a pasta dish to share - fillet of pork with mushrooms in a creamy truffle sauce, SEK 185. 

Glögg is Swedish's version of mulled wine, a popular drink during the Christmas season. Usually served with raisins and almonds. Very tasty, warm and cosy on a white Christmas. Needless to say we had more than once.