The Cube

Getting to Wadi Rum
My guesthouse in Petra helped me organise a bus to pick me up at 6:25am, JOD 7 which I paid to the guesthouse. He told me to get ready by 6:15am, just in case. At 6:15am, the guesthouse owner brought breakfast for the other 2 travellers and told me he made me some breakfast too, for free. My reservation did not include breakfast.

There was a taxi behind the bus and both stopped in front of the guesthouse. There were some exchange of conversation between the guesthouse owner and the taxi driver and I was ushered to get in the taxi, joining another 3 passengers. It was a bit of a squeeze but luckily the drive wasn't long.



Arriving at Wadi Rum
On arriving at Wadi Rum, the taxi driver sent us to the visitor centre to pay the entrance fee of JOD 5 to Wadi Rum. This is covered under Jordan Pass. After that, we waited at the carpark for someone from the camp to collect us. My 3 fellow travellers are friends and soon went on their merry way. I made reservation with Wadi Rum Legend Camp. They had initially asked me to wait for them at a petrol station nearby but the taxi driver said he will send me to the visitor centre. The taxi driver helped me called the camp a couple of times as nobody picked up the call and waited with me inside his car till someone from the camp came.

Hamed and Sulaiman came to pick me up. While Hamed was outside sorting out things with the taxi driver, Sulaiman asked for my name for verification that they picked up the right person. He couldn't get my name right after trying a couple of times.

It is true that my name is a little tricky to pronounce, so I asked him, "what do you suggest?"
Sulaiman had a think and replied, "Selma". So I was known and introduced as Selma during my stay in Wadi Rum.

Where we had breakfast, lunch and dinner

Hamed and Sulaiman drove me back to the camp where I joined everybody else in the main camp for breakfast. Even though I travel alone often but I am still very socially awkward especially around many people. I would usually just retreat to a corner of the room, similar to standing behind a pot plant if you like. Sulaiman insisted that I eat and sat next to me. I did feel less awkward after, is this the Bedouin's charm? By the way, combination of cream cheese with honey or tahini is tasty.

I joined Sonia for a 4 hour jeep tour (JOD 35) after breakfast. Abdullah was our tour guide for the day and cousins to Hamed and Sulaiman, who are brothers. Legend Camp is a family business (possibly the same for most camps in Wadi Rum) and owned by Hatem, another cousin. Pretty much everybody whom I met in the camp are relatives except for Ahmed, an Egyptian and Saddam from Yemen who works in the camp.

I must be a clueless tourist. Wadi Rum is big, I didn't ask where we would be going in this 4 hour jeep tour and just follow along. I guess if you feel strongly about certain sights, they would bring you there. I didn't.


4-hour Jeep Tour
Our first stop, Mushroom Rock.


Next we were brought to house of Lawrence. I am unsure if this was his actual house or part of film location of the movie Lawrence of Arabia. I suspect the "theme" of the locations I was brought to were of filming locations, so I think it is more the latter.


If you stand at the entrance, facing outside and yell, you will hear a loud echo. Abdullah also showed us that if you rub your fingers over one of the stones outside then rub on your skin, it would work as a blush. It was said that Bedouins used that as make up in the past.

There is this spot in Wadi Rum where you can see where the sand is divided into 2 colours.

Terracotta to the left, yellow to the right

We were brought to at least 2 different rock bridges. Sonia and I climbed up both, so poor tour guide climbed with us to avoid clumsy tourists fell to death.



Our other stops include at this ancient spring/well and a French fortress or castle, which was said to be the shooting location of Fort Boyard.



We also stopped for some tea and enjoyed rebab music. It is known as rabāba in Arabic. These tea stops were some sort of shops, which also sells random scarves or souvenirs. I didn't buy any but Sonia got a box of kohl, an ancient recipe for mascara.



After 4 hours, we were sent back to the camp. Sonia left for Aqaba soon after while I laze around till evening. As the day went, there were more people arriving to the camp and went for their jeep tour. I initially asked if I could have lunch when we were out on the jeep tour but was told that in view of the windy weather, it was not suitable to be cooking out in the open. On hindsight, it was way too early to have lunch in that 4 hour jeep tour especially since I had 2 breakfasts.


I had lunch at the main camp and paid JOD 7 for this. I really wished I could've pack them and have them at another meal because the portion was huge!


I wasn't in luck as you can see from the photos above, it was fairly cloudy on the day I visited, so there wasn't distint "egg yolk" looking sun or perfect blanket for stars photographs at night.


As I was walking nearby the camp to take some photos, Sulaiman returned to the camp with some guests. We had a little chat and he showed me how to wash hand using ajram plant. First he cut the top of the plant into small parts, then the plants were crushed using a small stone. He then placed the crushed ajram on my palm and poured a little water. I was told to rub both my palms together in a fast motion. It really was like a soap!

Interestingly, among all the staffs I met in the camp, I enjoyed my conversation with Sulaiman the most but he actually doesn't work in the camp. Coincidentally he was home for a holiday.

Dinner (JOD 12) was buffet style affair and I befriended a couple from Hong Kong. We shared a taxi to Aqaba the next morning. They were heading to Wadi Araba Crossing to get to Eilat while I wanted to get to Aqaba city center.

I read that there is one daily bus between Wadi Rum and Aqaba and departs from Wadi Rum around 6:30-7:00am, arriving in Aqaba after an hour and costs JOD 3 but doesn't run on Fridays. It appears that most don't recommend catching the bus because tickets cannot be booked. Possibly this was the reason why Hatem, the owner of the camp didn't comment much about the timing or sending me to catch the bus the next day. He mentioned of the bus possibly not available due to holiday. I needed to get to Aqaba because that would be my "gateway" to commute back to Amman. When he heard that we were planning to go to Aqaba by taxi, he promptly rang up his taxi contact and booked one for us the next morning at 9am.

After dinner activity was campfire in a covered tent, where we played some games and shishas were on offered at the cost of JOD 5. Of course, complimentary tea was offered. I tried my first shisha, grape flavoured courtesy of a French couple sitting next to me.

It was cold late December night but there were 2 single beds in my camp so I used all the blankets available. As I have woken up, I bundled up and walked out of my camp, hoping to see sky full of skies. There were some but it was still very cloudy. No luck.


Leaving the camp in Wadi Rum
I left for Aqaba with my newfound friends after breakfast. We rode behind a ute with the French couple who shared shisha with us last night to the nearby petrol station to meet the taxi driver who would send us to Aqaba.



Side note: Is it December yet? :(

Petra by Night is a separate event not covered by the Petra ticket. It costs an additional JOD 17 per adult and only runs every Monday, Wednesday and Thursday. It starts at 8:30pm and goes for 2 hours.

On the day of my visit, the weather wasn't great and so it wasn't confirmed that Petra by Night would run as scheduled. When I tried to buy a ticket in the morning, I was told to check again after 3pm. I went to check after 4pm when I left Petra but was told to call and check by 6:00pm. I asked the guesthouse to help me call and there were 2 sessions scheduled on that day, 7:00pm and 8:00pm. I asked for dinner to be at 6:30pm so I went for the 8:00pm session.


I walked back in through the Siq guided by candles lighted along the way, though some people would turn on the torch on their phone for more light assistance.

When I got to Al-Khazneh again, I was ushered to be seated at the front row, albeit a little to the side. Front row seats were pretty much on a rug, placed on the ground. After that, we were being served some sweet tea.

Not long after, I could hear some music by flute. I can't see anyone playing it though, so I can't tell if it was live flute music or playback. There were 2 pieces back to back, then someone narrating a story of some sort. Unfortunately it was clear enough to catch the whole narration. After that, there were different colour lights shone on Al-Khazneh.


Shortly after this, everybody was allowed to go to the front to take picture. I didn't think it was 2 hours long, more likely an hour, so maybe the 30 minutes before and after was taking into account the walk to and fro.

I began walking back after this, especially since I was barely at a strolling speed after walking doing 3 trails during the day.

(Open) secret of the lights - electronic LED covered with brown paper

On my very uphill walk back to the guesthouse, a very kind Samaritan slowed down his car midway on the road and asked if I needed a ride back to my guesthouse. I must clarify that this is very common in Jordan, especially true for taxi drivers who would slowed down their car and shout out, "2JD?" or "1JD?"

I declined and continue hobbling uphill. He asked a couple times and even said I don't have to pay him. I shooked my head and said,"no, thank you." He drove on but stopped his car by the side of the road just a little in front of me. I walked up to his car and he offered to send me back to the guesthouse again.

I know, mothers (including my mother) said don't get into stranger's car but I thanked him, and hopped in the car. He dropped me off to the guesthouse which wasn't far away. I thanked him and offered to pay. He replied, "No need to pay. Welcome to Jordan and enjoy your stay."

I am utmost grateful. This must be the Jordanian hospitality that I read often.



Side note: I found a Jordanian restaurant in Melbourne! ^^

Petra, an ancient Nabataean city forgotten for centuries until it was discovered by Swiss explorer Jean Louis Burckhardt in 1812. I was in awed, standing and staring up at Al-Khazneh. It was like a dream.


Getting to Wadi Musa from Queen Alia International Airport
Wadi Musa is a town in Ma'an Government and the nearest town to Petra. I touched down just passed 12pm and tried to get to the south bus station (Mujamma Janoobi /Alwehdat) before 2pm. 2pm because I read that minibuses are less frequent after. Even though minivans are said to to run the whole day but if there are no passengers, they would not run.

I took a taxi from the airport to the south bus station and paid JOD 25. I probably paid a little too much for this as I didn't see the counter for airport taxi which I read cost JOD 22 and went a driver with Avis car rental. My attempt to haggle for JOD 3 lesser wasn't successful and thought the price may have inflated a little and didn't push it harder, plus my haggling skill is really subpar.

Anyway, I got to the bus station at 1:17pm and the bus departed at 1:44pm. The taxi driver, Saed sent me right to the front of the minibus but on our journey there, he told me that his friend who lives in Wadi Musa was in Amman and would take JOD 25 for a taxi trip. That was a good deal as usually it could cost around JOD 85. Considering it was JOD 25 vs JOD 7, I chose the minibus.


Arriving at Wadi Musa, I got off the minivan with 2 other travellers just across the road from P Quattro Relax Hotel. I loaded up Google maps but the streets to Petra Rest Home looked a little confusing and I didn't want to spend too long wandering in the streets. The sun has set, it was winter after all. So I walked into P Quattro Relax Hotel to reconfirm on how to get to the accommodation I booked. The staff who was manning the front counter was super helpful and kind, he looked up the guesthouse and directed me.

On my way to Petra Rest Home

Getting in to Petra
If you hold a Jordan Pass, remember to show your pass at the ticket counter to get an actual ticket. This is the only site I went to that needed me to get Petra ticket, the rest only asked to view Jordan Pass which I just showed the mobile pass.

Free guide map from Petra

Trails in Petra
There are 8 different trails on the Petra guide map that I picked up from the Visitor Center.
1. Main Trail - as per the name, the main trail that leads to the heart of Petra
2. Al-Khubtha Trail - branching from the Royal Tombs, trail leading to view of the Treasury from above.
3. High Place of Sarifice Trail - this branch out from the main trail, going to the High Place of Sacrifice Trail, rounding back near the Great Temple
4. Ad-Deir (Monastery) Trail - continuation from main trail that leads to Ad-Deir, the Monastery
5. Umm Al-Biyara Trail
6. Jabal Haroun Trail
7. Sabra Trail
8. Al-Madras Trail

I did trail 1, 2 and 4 on my first day and trail 3 on second day. As you can see there are 4 other trails that I didn't do so Petra is huge!

The photos below were taken across two days, at different time of the day.


Main Trail
Approximate round-trip walking distance: 8 km / 5 miles
Duration (walking): 3.5 - 4 hours
Level of intensity: Easy

From entrance gate, you would be asked if you want a "taxi" or "ride", both referring to horse or donkey riding. They won't insist if you refused. Very shortly after you passed the entry gate, there would be a big change of scenery, as if you suddenly stepped into a film scene setting, only that these are real.


This is the stretch from entry gate to the Siq, along the way you will see massive Djinn blocks which are squared monuments. Also along the way is this Obelisk Tomb from 1st century AD.

Obelisk Tomb, from 1st century AD

Then the open surrounding changed into a path flanked by narrow gorge, the beginning of the Siq.


This natural splitting of mountain forming an exclusive 1.2km long walkway into Petra. I didn't really know how long this would be and I am terrible in estimation of distance so each turn was really a surprise.

Horseback, donkey back, camel back or carriage

Camel caravan

... at the last turn giving sneak peaks of what's at the end!


Possibly the most famous treasury in the world, Al-Khazneh.


The Treasury (Al-Khazneh / Al Khazna) is indeed the most spectacular monument carved by the Nabataeans. It was carved out of a single block and stood 39.5m tall. A local Bedouin legend has it that a pharaoh hid a treasure in the urn at the top, hence the name. It is, however, a mausoleum like many other monuments in Petra. It is believed that this is the mausoleum of King Aretas IV (9 BC - 40 AD).

If you have heard of Indiana Jones, one of the shooting scene for the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade was at Al-Khazneh.

There is an unofficial trail to viewing Al-Khazneh from above if follow the rest of people and walk to your right (facing the Treasury).

This is where you start climbing, next to Al-Khazneh

The trail isn't very clear cut and felt more slippery to my clumsy self so please be careful. At the very top, I believe is a teahouse. In fact, probably all the signs that read "best view of ..." is actually leading to a teahouse. I didn't go all the way to the top, stopping at the first landing.

Spot the man at the top

Spot the man at the top to gauge how high up you can go. Here's another photo of Al-Khazneh taken at the first landing of this unofficial trail. It is about at eye level-ish.


Moving beyond Al-Khazneh one would arrived at the Street of Facades. This stretch of street showcases a row of Nabataen tombs


The next "pit stop" would be where the Main Trail branch out to High Place of Sacrifice Trail but continuing on the Main Trail, we will see the Theatre. This theatre was carved into the side of the mountain at the foot of High Place of Scarifice.

Taken from viewpoint at Al-Khubtha trail

I actually didn't notice the Nymphaeum when I first walked passed it because there was a stall selling souvenir in front of this semi-circular public fountain. Plus there were also some tired tourists taking a rest under the shade of a 450 years old wild pistachio tree.


Right after, you will hit Colonnaded Street. This street represent the main shopping streets of ancient Petra, and later Roman.


On one side of the street is the Great Temple and on the opposite, a little up a hill is the Church.

Great Temple

A little different from the rest of the monuments, the Church was covered to protect the floor mosaics.

The unassuming Church

Just a little further is the last monument on the Main Trail, the most important temple of Petra, a squarish Qasr al-Bint.



Ad-Deir (Monastery) Trail
Approximate round-trip walking distance: 2.5 km / 1.6 miles
Duration (walking): 2.5 - 3 hours
Level of intensity: Hard

Aside from the Main Trail, the most popular trail must be this one, the one to the monastery. A friend who visited before said that it was a hard climb and she had to use both hands to climb up so I had the impression of it being a really tough trail. Fret not, it wasn't as hard but it was a busy trail indeed and needing to make way for donkeys too.

The trail continues from the Main Trail, next to The Basin Restaurant. When I first read about Petra for information I was always wondering what is The Basin, so it turned out to be a restaurant.

Closer to the start of the trail, detour a little to see the Lion Triclinium. It got it's name from the 2 lions carving that flanked the entrance.


To get here from the Ad-Deir Trail, you'll have to pass under a boulder.

This is taken from Lion Triclinium going back to Ad-Deir trail

There isn't any other monuments along the way up to the Monastery but the view was great! I sent a random photo of this trail to a group chat with my friends with caption, "lunch view today" and one of my friend replied "it looked like Jordan". I am most impressed, didn't think it is so obvious especially when there wasn't any monument in the photo that I sent.

Walk or ride?

Many steps and uphill trail later, the reward at the end is Ad Deir (the Monastery). It is said that the hall was later re-used as a Christian chapel and there were crosses carved into the rear wall, so it was named the Monastery.

If you are too young to hear of Indiana Jones, maybe you have heard of Transfromers: Revenge of the Fallen where one of the scenes was filmed at the Monastery.


Right opposite the Monastery is a cafe/restaurant. I wanted to find a shady spot to have my lunch box from the guesthouse (JOD 7) which consisted of a sandwich, a cake, combination of 3 fruits (apple, orange and/or banana), a bottle of water and a packet of box drink. It was very windy when I was there, so not an ideal time to eat when I need to protect my face and food from the flying sand.

If you don't want to eat at a paid establishment, there is somewhere you can climb to get a view just slightly next to the cafe. When I was there, there was a local resting at this covered area. Further behind is a viewpoint and of course a teahouse right at the top.

From the viewpoint with the Monastery on the left

I stopped midway on my way down the Ad Deir trail to have my lunch. Lunch view was amazing.

Actually I did the Al-Khubtha trail prior to finishing the Main Trail because I accidentally de-tour to the Royal Tombs after the Theatre. If you have done both the Main Trail and Ad-Deir trail, and still want to continue, you can return to the Royal Tombs followed by the Al-Khubtha trail. I did 3 trails on my first day because I was early. Thanks to jetlag, I was already in Petra just after 6am.


Al-Khubtha Trail
Approximate round-trip walking distance: 3.5 km / 2.2 miles
Duration (walking): 2.5 - 3 hours
Level of intensity: Hard

This trail was far more quieter than Ad Deir trail and no need to avoid donkeys, but possibly because I was early when I did it. It made this trail much enjoyable.

Before you start on the Al-Khubtha trail, do visit the Royal Tombs that is made up of Urn Tomb, Silk Tomb, Corinthian Tomb and Palace Tomb.

Inside one of the Royal Tombs

Going around the Royal Tombs after visiting them, you will soon reach the Al-Khubtha trail. There are signs to indicate the trails so most people do these trails (the ones I've done) without a guide.


Al-Khubtha also starts with a series of steps, like this.


There are 3 different panoramic view reward at the top.


A short walk from here will be bring you back to viewing the magnificient Al-Khazneh but from above.

Featuring my trusty boots

There is a free spot to enjoy the view but a little away from here, possible a more front view of Al-Khazneh. However you'll need to pay for a drink at a teahouse, of course.

Then I returned to catch a panoramic view of the Theatre.


I returned to the guesthouse after this as the weather wasn't great so it was not confirmed if Petra By Night would run as scheduled, also I made reservation for dinner at the guesthouse. I did, however, returned for Petra By Night after though!


High Place of Sacrifice Trail
Approximate round-trip walking distance: 3 km / 1.9 miles
Duration (walking): 2.5 - 3 hours
Level of intensity: Hard


See... another trail that starts with steps. Up and up to the High Place of Sacrifice.


Petra is so big that this trail almost feel like it is at another location. High Place of Sacrifice is right at the top on a mountain plateau. At the last part, you'll have to walk up a small hump. This place of worship is at the third hump. On the day I was there it was rainy and windy making it a little scary. There is a less scary way to go up if you go around to its left and go up from there.



Rainy and windy but still excellent view at the top.

Teahouse at the top of the mountain

The fun thing about the High Place of Sacrifice trail is that you don't have to backtrack all the way till Main Trail again. All you need to do is walk back to where the sign indicate Wadi Farasah and follow that.

Mountain goats showing off to me how to go downhill gracefully

On this trail, there is the Lion Fountain and Garden Hall.

Lion Fountain

I spy with my little eyes - the Garden Hall

This trail will bring you back to behind Qasr al-Bint. My lunch spot for day 2 was close to the start of Jabal Haroun/Sabra/Al-Madras trails. From the map, all 3 trails starts from a similar point but branched out after.


Petra was way beyond expectation and blew my mind away. Yes, it is expensive but definitely worth a visit.



Side note: If you scroll all the way to the end of this really long post, thank you! ^^