Nepal: Walkabout Pokhara

I slotted in Pokhara sometime in the middle of the trip to have buffer between international flights. To cut down commuting time, I decided to fly one way to Pokhara and bus back to Kathmandu. I booked a flight with Yeti Air, the cheapest flight on the day and timing I want. I read that it is better to fly earlier in the morning due to potential flight cancellations or rescheduling. Also, right side of the plane to Pokhara gives a better view if you can get it. The guesthouse staff haggled with a taxi driver just outside the guesthouse entrance to bring me to the airport, NPR 600. 

I left my bigger backpack at the guesthouse in Kathmandu as I would return to the same guesthouse after Pokhara. So I only carried my daypack with me, which was really lucky because a lot of walking happened in Pokhara before checking into an accommodation. 

On arrival in Pokhara, I got a taxi to bring me to World Peace Pagoda. The driver also offered a full day tour but I didn't take it up. I read that taxi charges NPR 1200 to World Peace Pagoda for one way, and NPR 1500 for return trip. I am not sure if the price had gone up or I paid too much but I only managed to negotiate to NPR 1500 for a one way trip from Pokhara Airport. I ended up walking everywhere in Pokhara the whole day after leaving the World Peace Pagoda. 

World Peace Pagoda

Entrance fee: Free

World Peace Pagoda or Shanti Stupa is located on Anadu Hill overlooking Phewa Lake with Annapurna Mountain range in the background. The first of these pagodas were built in Japan, and the aim is to build 100 World Peace Pagodas throughout the world to convey the message of peace. 

From what I read, there are 2 popular ways if you want a hike up to the pagoda. One is to take a boat trip across Phewa Lake and then walk up from where the boat drops you off. The other less steep but longer way is to walk through Damside. Damside is said to be the stomping ground of muggers and thieves and people are warned from solo hiking. There are posts online to warn on danger on both trails albeit dated quite a few years back. 

After considering all factors, I chose to go there directly from Pokhara Airport by a taxi but walked down via the main road. The taxi dropped me off at the base of a flight of rock steps. I was told to climb those steps to reach the pagoda. Along the way to the pagoda, there are some small shops and eateries. 

As the pagoda is on top of a hill, it's a good spot to view Pokhara from above ground level. 

From World Peace Pagoda, you can see what I think is Pumdikot Shiva Statue. 

Patale Chhango / Davis Fall / Devi's Fall

Entrance fee: NPR 100

Locally known as Patale Chhango, this is the most famous waterfall in Pokhara. It was said that the fall was named as Davis Fall following the death of a Swiss citizen known as Mrs. Davis. Allegedly, Mrs. Davis and her husband visited the area and she died while taking a bath a few meters away from the fall, presumably due to an accident.

The introduction board mentioned that the best time to watch the falls is from June to September. I visited at end of March. 

There is a couple of resting area around the grounds and wishing well but overall place is not big. 

 

Gupteshwar Mahadev Cave

Entrance fee: NPR 100

Right across the road from Davis Fall is a limestone cave - Gupteshwar Mahadev Cave. It is said that the water from Davis Fall passes through this cave. It was crowded with Indian visitors at the time of my visit. From memory, photography is not allowed except at the site where the below photo was taken. This is because the cave is a sacred site with shrines including a Shiva temple and statues of Hindu deities. 

Outside of the cave though is this round concrete balcony looking structure. An entrance ticket will allow you to enter the cave via a large spiral staircase. 

Phewa Tal

The second largest lake in Nepal, and the biggest in Pokhara boasted with Annapurna range as its backdrop. This is the where most travellers to Pokhara stay. The lake is free but you can pay for boating around the lake, or across it to the starting point to hike up to the World Peace Pagoda, or to the small island within the lake where Tal Barahi temple is located. 

I was thwarted by the crowd and queue to get a boat to Tal Barahi, as well as article that I read the temple is under construction. So I didn't end up getting there. The return ticket price of the communal boat to Tal Barahi quoted to me was NPR 110. Apparently I read that to get back, you will need to find a vacant spot with any barge with your return ticket. 

Annapurna Cable Car

Return ticket: NPR 1,590 / USD 12 (I paid in Nepalese rupee)

Lower station: Sedibagar

I visited World Peace Pagoda, Davis Fall and Gupteshwar Mahadev Cave on the same day before walking to the Annapurna Cable Car bottom station/terminal at Sedibagar. A poster at the ticketing office at the time of my visit mentioned of shuttle running at 8:30 am, 11:30 am, 2:30 pm and 5:30 pm. From online sources, there are free shuttle from different pick up points to Sedibagar terminal to catch the first service in time for sunrise. 

I am quite sure there must be fare paying buses to get to Lakeside at the very least but when I asked, I was told there wasn't any. So I ended up walking everywhere in Pokhara except when I arrived in Pokhara (taxi from airport to World Peace Pagoda) and on departure (bus from near guesthouse to main bus park, Prithvi Chowk)

I decided I wanted to try to catch both sunset and sunrise from Sarangkot so I spent a night there. Return ticket is valid for 7 days including day of purchase. My ticket was issued on 31/03/2024, and valid until 06/04/2024. 

Side note: 🦥