Tibet: Shigatse Prefecture - From Sakya to Saga

Start: Sakya

1. Sakya Monastery 萨迦寺

End: Saga

Sakya Monastery 萨迦寺

The 1073 built Sakya Monastery, also known as Pel Sakya translated as "Pale Earth" are with buildings in ash grey colour with white and red vertical stripes. The colouring symbolises the Rgisum Gonpo (the trinity of bodhisattvas) and stands as a mark of Sakya authority. It was founded by Khon Kunchok Gyapo was originally a Nyingmapa monk of the powerful House of Khon of Tsang, who became the first Sakya Trizin (Trizin is the traditional title of the head of the Sakya school). 

There are actually two monasteries, on either side of the river Trum-chu - north and south. The hillside northern monastery is largely reduced to picturesque ruins is undergoing restoration work. Most of the southern monastery was burned down in the 16th century. It was only restored to its previous size in 1948. 

The monks were mopping the floor when we visited. A mopping cloth was tied to the bottom of a huge gunny sack of barley, so the monk was moving the weight as he mopped through the whole chapel - exercised and cleaned. 

 

Monk's quarters

The initial plan was to head to Tibet's side of Everest Base Camp (EBC) from Sakya but it was cloudy and snowing. Driver and guide proposed if we wanted to swap the itinerary and only visit EBC on the way back to Lhasa as the probability of seeing the peak of the mountains is low due to the weather. The weather forecast a week later, when we returned was clear so the itinerary was changed to Saga from Sakya. 

Saga is located in the north western area of Shigatse prefecture, at a junction of three main roads from Shigatse, Everest region, Tibet-Nepal border towns Gyirong and Purang, and western Tibet. So Saga was also our last stop before crossing over to Ngari Prefecture. 

Side note: Kinosaki or Kurashiki or Koya-san?

Tibet: Shigatse Prefecture - Tashilhunpo Monastery and Highway Route 318

Start: Gyantse Old Town

1. Tashilhunpo Monastery 扎什伦布寺

2. Tibet Lazi People's Square 西藏拉孜-5000 KM-上海人民广场

End: Sakya


Tashilhunpo Monastery 扎什伦布寺
Tashilhunpo Monastery was founded by the first Dalai Lama, Gedun Drupa in 1447. It is the largest monastery in Tsang Area as well as the traditional seat of successive Panchen Lamas, Tibet's second highest incarnation. It is one of the few monasteries in Tibet to weather the Cultural Revolution. Covering 70,000 sq metres, the monastery is the largest functioning religious institution in Tibet and one of the Great Six Gelugpa Monasteries of Tibetan Buddhism (the others are Drepung Monastery, Sera Monastery, Ganden Monastery, Kumbum Monastery and Labrang Monastery). 

Chapel of Jampa (Jamkhang Chenmo) houses a huge golden statue of the Future Buddha, Maitreya Buddha or Jampa in Tibetan, the largest glided status in the world. The 26 metres statue is made of 279 kilograms of gold and 230,000 kilograms of copper, and is adorned with precious stones. 

Monks start to lock chapels up for lunch at midday. As we were about to leave, some of the doors were being locked up so we went through a different way. 

Chapel of Jampa (Jamkhang Chenmo) in the middle, Thangka exhibit wall to the right

Tibet Lazi People's Square 西藏拉孜-5000 KM-上海人民广场

We didn't stay in Shigatse but had a day's stay when we returned to Lhasa before leaving Tibet. This round we continued on to Sakya. Tibet Lazi People's Square is actually one of the stop on route to Sakya. We were mostly at the rest stop at highway 318 route, and this one was at 5000 km from Shanghai.

We had been looking for yak yoghurt since we were in Lhasa. The shop we went to didn't have them even though it was on their menu. Guide said that there was a stall that sells good yoghurt in Lhasa but he thinks the stall had closed as he didn't see it when we walked passed when leaving Potala Palace. One of the stalls at this rest stop sells snacks including yoghurt and the driver got us one each. We then got some yoghurt lollipops to try.

The photo taken at rest stop is with sis, we got these ourselves before leaving Tibet

Side note: What shows are you watching lately?

Tibet: Shannan & Shigatse Prefecture - From Yarlung Tsangpo Valley to Yamdrok-tso to Gyantse

Start: Lhasa

1. Yarlung Tsangpo Valley Viewing Platform 雅江河谷观景台

2. Kambala Pass 崗巴拉山口

3. Yamdrok-tso 羊卓雍錯

4. Karola Glacier 卡若拉冰川

5. Pelkor Chode Monastery 白居寺

6. Gyantse Kumbum 江孜千佛塔

End: Gyatse Old Town 江孜鎮


Yarlung Tsangpo Valley Viewing Platform 雅江河谷观景台
The Yarlung Zangbo River Valley Viewing Platform (Yarlung Zangbo River is also known as Brahmaputra River) is located on the way from Lhasa to Yamdrok-tso. This 4280 metres above sea level observation deck is located halfway up Kambala Mountain in Gangba Village. Along the walk to the viewing platform, there were vendors selling handicrafts and snacks like fries and fruits. There were also vendors offering photo opportunities with Tibetan mastiffs, little lambs or white yaks at a cost. 

Kambala Pass 崗巴拉山口

Kambala Mountain or Gangbala Mountain or Gambala Mountain is located between Nagarze County and Gonggar County in Shannan Prefecture. It sits at 4794 metres high and provides first sight Yamdrok-tso holy lake. 

Yamdrok-tso 羊卓雍錯

Yamdrok-tso or Yangzhuo Yongcuo is normally first seen from Kambala pass as were we. The lake lies several hundred metres below the road, and in clear weather is a fabulous shade of deep turquoise. In the far distance is the huge massif of Mt Nojin Kangtsang (7191 m). 

Yamdrok-tso is shaped like a coiling scorpion. It is one of the four holy lakes (the others are Lhasa La-tso, Nam-tso and Manasarovar) and home to wrathful deities. Devout Tibetan pilgrims do a kora around the lake in seven days. 

Karola Glacier 卡若拉冰川

The Karola Glacier is one of Tibet's three major continental glaciers and located at the junction of Nanggarze and Gyantse of Tibet. It is a little further away from Yamdrok-tso and along the way from Gyantse. This glacier is the source of the eastern part of the Nianchu River. The Karola Glacier is backed by the southern slope of Nojin Kangsang Peak (7191 metres), one of the four highest peaks in Tibet. The entire glacier covers an area of 9.4 sq km.

Pelkor Chode Monastery 白居寺

Pelkor Chode Monastery and Gyantse Kumbum are within the same complex but we visited Pelkor Chode Monastery first. It was a long day, the visit was initially scheduled the next day but guide said that we wouldn't have enough time the next day so we continued on. 

Pelkor Chode Monastery was built in 1418 by Dharma King of Gyantse Rabtan Kunsang Phag and the first Panchen Lama Kedrup Geleg Pesang. The red-walled Pelkor Chode was once a compound of 15 monasteries that brought together three different orders of Tibetan Buddhism. Nine of the monasteries were Gelugpa, three were Sakyapa and three belonged to the obscure Buton suborder whose head monastery was Shalu near Shigatse. 

The main assemblu hall is the main attraction and is where most people begin their exploration as it is straight ahead when one walk into the compound. The entrance has statues of the Four Guardian Kings instead of paintings and a large Wheel of Life mural. 

Main assembly hall, Tsochen

Gyantse Kumbum 江孜千佛塔

Gyantse Kumbum was commissioned by a Gyantse prince in 1427 and is the town's foremost attraction. It stands at 32 metres high, with nine levels, 108 cells, 75 chapels and many wall paintings as kumbum means 100,000 images in Tibetan. Each chapel is decorated with wall paintings, some have various statues of Buddhas, Bodhisattvas and deities. Most paintings date to the time of the construction of the stupa.

Unfortunately by the time we got there, it was already passed 5 pm and we were not allowed to go up beyond first floor (from memory). 

Side note: Winter is here...

Tibet: Lhasa - The Land of the Gods

Day 1

Start/End: Banak Shol Hotel

1: Barkhor Street 八廓街

Day 2

Start/End: Banak Shol Hotel 

1. Drepung Monastery 哲蚌寺

2. Sera Monastery 色拉寺

Day 3

Start/End: Banak Shol Hotel

1. Jokhang Temple 大昭寺

2. Barkhor Street 八廓街

3. Guangming Gangqiongtian Tea House 老光明岗琼甜茶馆

4. Potala Palace 布达拉宫

'Lha' translates to "deity", "god" or "divine" while 'sa' translates to "land", "soil" or "earth". So Lhasa - the Land of the Gods. 

Lhasa rose as an important administrative centre in the 7th century AD, when the 33rd Tibetan king of the Yarlung dynasty, King Songtsen Gampo (601- 683 CE, reign 614 - 648) moved his capital from Yarlung Valley to Lhasa and built a palace on the site now occupied by the Potala. It was also at this time that the temples of Ramache and the Jokhang were founded to house the priceless first Buddha statues brought to Tibet as the dowries of King Songtsen Gampo's Chinese and Nepali queens - Princess Wencheng and Princess Bhrikuti. 

Following the fall of the monarchy in the 9th century, the centre of the political power of the Tibetan region was shifted to Sakya, Nedong (Ü) and then Shigatse (Tsang) till the 5th Dalai Lama, Lobsang Gyatso (1617 - 1682) unified Tibet and moved the centre of his administration to Lhasa in 1642 with Mongol support. 

By the 15th century, the city of Lhasa had risen to prominence following the founding of three large Gelugpa monasteries by Je Tsongkhapa and his disciples. The three monasteries are Ganden, Sera and Drepung which were built as part of the puritanical Buddhist revival in Tibet. The scholarly achievements and political know-how of this Gelugpa Lineage eventually pushed Lhasa once more to centre stage.

Drepung Monastery 哲蚌寺

Drepung onastery,lso ed Tashi-Megyur-Chakju-Ling is one of the six largest monasteries of the Gelupa Sect. It is located at the foot of the West Valley Mountain (Gyepbel-Ou-Tse) about 10 km from Lhasa. Drepung translates as 'rice heap', referring to a huge numbers of white monastic buldings that once piled up in the hillside. 

Drepung was founded in 1416 by Jamyang Choge Tashi Palden, one of Tsongkhapa's main disciple. Over ten thousand monks resided there before Liberation, making it the largest monastery in Tibet. It has six main temples - Ganden Palace (Ganden Phodrang), Toschen, Ngakpa, Losaling, Gomang and Dyeyang.  The Ganden Phodrang in Drepung was the residence of the Dalai Lamas until the Great Fifth Dalai Lama constructed the Potala.

"Om mani padme hum"

Prayer wheels are turned clockwise

Scroll in prayer wheel

Wall to hang thangka

Ganden Palace (Ganden Phodrang) - the former residence of the Dalai Lamas

Coqen Hall (Tsokchen Lhakhang) - the main assembly hall of Drepung Temple

We were given permission to take photos inside this hall

Sera Monastery 色拉寺

Sera Monastery was founded by Jamchen Choje Shakya Yesh who was a disciple of Tsongkhapa in 1419. Sera Monastery has an Assembly Hall, three colleges and thirty three houses. The monastery's construction covers an area of 114,964 square meters. It is the second biggest monastery of Tibet, after Drepung. 

Outside of Sera Monastery, there are statues of the "Four Harmonious Friends" - elephant monkey, rabbit and rooster. The story tells of how the four animals, despite their differing strengths and weaknesses, learned to help each other. The elephant, with his strength, supported the other animals to reach a fruit-laden tree. The monkey climbed the tree and dropped the fruits for the others. The rabbit helped the others with carrying the fruits and the rooster, believed to be the oldest of the group, provided guidance and knowledge. 

On weekday afternoons from around 3 pm to 5 pm, there is a debating practice at Sera Monastery's debating courtyard. The debate is an important session to study and discuss about five major text in Tibetan Buddhism. During the debate, monks would debate vigorously by employing some gestures like hand clapping to enliven the ambience. 

Jokhang Temple 大昭寺

Jokhang Temple is situated in the center of old Lhasa. The estimation of Jokhang's founding range from 639 to 647 A.D. during the time of Tibetan King Songtsan Gampo to house an image of Mikyoba (Akshobhya) brought to Tibet as part of the dowry of his Nepali wife Princess Bhrikuti. The Ramache Temple was constructed at the same time to house another Buddha image, the Jowo Sakyamuni, brought to Tibet by his Chinese wife Princess Wencheng. 

It is said that the Jowo Sakyamuni was moved from Ramoche for its protection and hidden in the Jokhang by Princess Wencheng after the death of Songtsen Gampo. The image has remained in the Jokhang ever since. The Jokhang takes the size like it is today after extensions in later period. 

Our visit coincided with the 2025 Tibetan Buddhist academic degree Geshe Lharampa award ceremony. "Geshe" means intellectual in Tibetan language and "lharampa" title is the highest of four levels in Gelug school degree teaching. The academic tradition of Geshe degrees dates back roughly 900 years, with the Lharampa title established about 400 years ago.

In 2025, thirteen monks were awarded the prestigious Geshe Lharampa, equivalent to a doctorate in mainstream higher education. The monks, hailing from temples across Tibet and Yunnan Province, participated in the formal debate and award ceremony. During our visit, the debate already started and still ongoing when we left. 

Tibetans prostration outside of Jokhang Temple

Guardian Kings

Guardian Kings

Ongoing debate during lunch time, and the graduates

Barkhor Street 八廓街

Barkhor is a quadrangle of streets that surrounds the Jokhang complex. Barkhor Street was first a circumambulation circuit around the Jokhang Temple. This circumambulation circuit refers to walking around the Jokhang Temple in the clockwise direction, which shows worship to the bronze statue of Sakyamuni enshrined in the temple. It is one of the three famous circumambulation circuits in Lhasa. The other two being Lingkhor (outer circumambulation circuit) around the old city zone; and Nangkhor which is the circumambulation corridor encircles the inner precincts of the Jokhang Temple.

We went to the Barkhor Street on the day we arrived in Lhasa and our guide were pleased that we did two rounds of kora. This was mainly because we wanted to go back to one of the shops and the right way is going clockwise. We also did one round of kora after visiting the Jokhang Temple. 

Guangming Gangqiongtian Tea House 光明岗琼甜茶馆

Tea is a big thing in Tibet with option of butter tea and sweet tea. We were told that outside of the city area, most locals drink butter tea but sweet tea is more popular in city area. Sweet tea is made of black tea, milk and white sugar. We had a stop at a local tea house before lunch. Most people just drink tea, only a handful ordered food. 

The guide found us seats at a table, grabbed 3 glasses from the counter and left some notes on the table. The staffs went around with a kettle and poured tea to empty glasses and payment is made to the staff directly. 

Potala Palace 布达拉宫

Lhasa's cardinal landmark and home to every Dalai Lama from the fifth to 14th. The Potala is built on the site of palace Songtsen Gampo on the Red Hill. The fifth Dalai Lama started the construction of the modern Potala Palace in 1645 after being pointed out that the site was ideal as a seat of government, situated between Drepung and Sera monasteries and the old city of Lhasa. 

The White Palace (Kharpo Podrang) was built in 3 years after work first began in 1645. However, the construction of the larger Red Palace (Marpo Podrang) were subject to some dispute and took much longer. The construction were still ongoing when the fifth Dalai Lama died in 1682 and this death was concealed until the completion of the Red Palace 12 years later. The death of the fifth Dalai Lama was not announced until he was put to rest in the newly completed Red Palace. 

Since its construction, the Potala has been the home of each of the successive Dalai Lamas, although since construction of the Norbulingka summer palace in the late 18th century, it served as a winter residence only. 

The entry to the Potala was organised by our guide but we were told of an appointment time to follow. There was also a 60 minutes time restriction to visit the inside of the Potala. We were told that fine applies when time is exceeded. Fine is calculated based on seconds exceeded. The tour company or guide could also be banned from booking an appointment to Potala for a period of time. 

White walls painted with mixture of milk, honey, sugar, lime and saffron

White Palace

Side note: Temperature control kettle is awesome