The Cube: October 2023

Friday, October 27, 2023

New Caledonia: Things to do in Noumea

This is in the order of places in city centre, followed by order of visit.

Port Moselle Market

Open Tuesday to Sunday, from 5am to 11:30am.

It is identifiable with the hexagonal blue roofs. It is not a big market but one can find meat, veges, fruits, cooked food and souvenirs. I got a couple of croissants (1 plain and 1 with ham and cheese), crossed the road to the garden, plonked myself on a bench and ate them for my late breakfast.

Place des Cocotiers

This is the city square and at the top is a band rotunda from the late 1800s. There's free wi-fi throughout the square and many benches to sit so a good place to take a break.

Cathédrale Saint-Joseph

Built in 1888 by convict labour and is one of Noumea's landmarks. I went on a Sunday and did not coincide with any scheduled Sunday masses time so it was closed.

Musée de la Seconde Guerre mondiale

Open Monday to Saturday, 9am to 12pm and 1pm to 5pm. Entry fees: 300XPF for adult

The musuem is housed in a refurbished Quonset hut originally built by the Americans in 1943. Between 1939 and 1945 New Caledonia joined free France. The musuem itself isn't big but the exhibits were interesting and informative on New Caledonia's participation in WWII. As the exhibits are in French, I was handed a hand held device, sized of an ipad to listen to the audio guide. This was the only museum I entered in Noumea.

Orphelinat Bay

I walked over to catch the sunset as the weather was great. This was just next to Baie des Citrons.

Baie des Citrons

Orientated north-south and less than 10 minutes from the city centre. The beach is closed for swimming at the moment due to recent shark incident. On my visit, I walked along the waterfront, from Orphelinat Bay to Baie des Citrons to Anse Vata.

Anse Vata

Orientated east-weat, it is a popular beach. Likewise Baie des Citrons, also closed for swimming. It's only 5 minutes by taxiboat from here to Ile aux Canards.

Promenade Pierre Vernier

It's not exactly a tourist attraction but it's a good walk that continues on from Anse Vata and rounds the waterfront to the other side of the island. I happened to continue walking on the day I wanted to walk up Ouen Toro but when I saw the trail and my slippers, I didn't not to proceed and continued on walking along the waterfront.

Ouen Toro

There are a few different trails to go up to Ouen Toro. I went up on one of the trail, across the road after Le Meridien. I think the trail that I went on is cross between some trails but so long it leads to the top. I came down by the walkway along the main road. The walk up felt easy, I wasn't gasping for air but then again, I also took my own sweet time to make sure I wasn't lost. The walk down was an easy downhill so I guess it would be a little steep when walk up.

Tjibaou Cultural Centre

Open Tuesday to Sunday, from 9am to 5pm (Tue-Sat), from 9am to 4pm (Sunday), entrance fee: 1000 XPF, re-enter allowed. Bus stop name: Tjibaou

The cultural centre is a tribute to a pro-independence Kanak leader Jean-Marie Tjibaou who was assassinated in 1989. The building was designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano who also designed Paris' Pompidou Centre. The centre is easily accessible by public bus with the stop just outside of the entrance. There were good views along the way by bus.

The exhibits are in French but there is free wi-fi within the compound and you are encournaged to use google translate to translate the texts. I really want to like this place but between this and the WWII museum, I prefer the latter.

Mont Dore Hike

Nearest bus stop: Ninette

The walk from bus stop to start of trail is clearly indicated. Start of trail was marked too but I missed it, it was a quick left turn from begining, so please don't miss it like me. The trail are on red dirt path along metal stairs.

Mont Dore is a mountain just southeast of Noumea. It was steep hike of 7.3km (return - I think, it's in french acronym). Said to take 4 hours 30 mins return (also by deduction) but I've read a blog that said they took 1.5 hours one way. At 1.5 hours, I only reached station 1. I also didn't finish the hike because I forgot to check the time of last bus back to Noumea. The bus was infrequent, one hours plus between buses.

Anyway, I turned back just passed station 1 so I don't miss the bus. But I somehow only took 40 minutes to hike down so I made a good time for the 2:39pm bus. The only consolation was that it started pouring just as I made it back to the bus stop. I was dry but my shoes and socks were already soaked through from the beginning of the hike because it rained in the morning.

It was over an hour bus ride from city centre to get here. There is hardly any shade at most part of the hike so when the sun is up, it was hot.

Eat bougna

I mostly bought food from the supermarket and only ate out once in Noumea for bougna. Bougna is a traditional Kanak stew dish, with ingredients wrapped in banana leaves then buried for cooking. I found a place in Noumea (Celeneraw) that serves this dish. I am not sure of any other restaurants that also serves bougna so I didn't make any comparison. The one I had ingredients of prawns, fish, banana, yam, sweet potato cooked in coconut milk and was delicious. On the day I visited, they were doing some specials set menu but I only want to eat bougna.

Served with bread, 2550 XPF

There are some offshore islands that one can visit but I didn't make it to any. I was interested in Amedee Islet, mostly for its tall white lighthouse but seems the only way to get here is via a day trip with Mary D. However, I am not thrilled with the rest of the activities that formed part of the day trip. In the midst of my contemplation, there were no more spots on the days I could made it. So I didn't get to any of the offshore islands.

Side note: Running out of shows to watch...

Friday, October 20, 2023

New Caledonia: Random things to consider when planning a trip to New Caledonia

1. When to go

Cyclone season is from November to April. May to August is considered high season as tropical heat dips to cool season and passed cyclone season. I went during last week of April as it coincide with a public holiday, my passport is approaching the 6 months mark and needed to be renewed, flights on sale and I thought it was close enough to May. There were some rainy days, but manageable except one of the days when I was in Ile des Pins. It rained pretty much the whole day.

2. Currency

Currency for New Caledonia is Pacific Franc (CFP) or XPF. It is pegged to euros at a fixed exchange rate of 100 XPF = €0.838 euros. Duty free on Air Calin is charged in euro.

3. Public buses

Public buses route can be planned using the bus website - https://itineraires.taneo.nc/en/

The single trip Taneo ticket (300 XPF) is literally single trip, no transfer. A day trip ticket (900 XPF) is only activated when you tapped on the bus, so you can pre-buy some (if you need) when you come across a ticket vending machine. I've only seen ticket vending machine at Place Moselle and Desmazures. So if you are staying near one of those smaller stops and needed a day pass (and dont have any), you will have to pay for a single trip to town center and get one. Single trip can be bought from bus driver. Bus ticket fare is at a flat rate.

Bus ticket is tap on and tap off. There are electronic sign board in the bus to indicate the next station so you would know when to press the bell to get off.

4. Supermarket

New Caledonia is not a cheap destination, but cost for food can be reduced by getting food from supermarket instead of eating out. Casino Supermarket that I went to (Casino Port Plaisance) stocks more French food versus the other supermarket in the neighbourhood that I went to (Auchan) but both sells hot food too.

5. ATM

I see ATMs in Noumea and there's one in Vao in Ile des Pins but I didn't use any. I exchanged some XPF prior to travelling and used cash.

6. Check in question

On checking in to my flight, one of the questions asked was if I had booked my accommodations. I was told that I might be asked that on arrival in Noumea.

7. Airport shuttle

I book an airport shuttle on arrival as public buses have stopped running by the time I arrived, but there are public buses to and fro the airport, however, they are very infrequent service. I used Arc en Ciel. For some reason, my transactions using mastercard were rejected. I managed to book using a visa card. I put in the address of the airbnb accommodation that I booked and was pleasantly surprised that they sent me right to the gate!

8. Airports

There are 2 airports in Noumea. The international airport, Tontouta Airport and domestic airport, Magenta Airport. Magenta Airport is closer to town and the 2 airports are not near to each other. Public bus service can get to both airports. Airport shuttle cost 2,500 XPF one way versus 300 XPF for public bus (if you don't need a transfer).

9. Mobilis

I contemplated to get a phone card (mobilis) but ended up didn't. If you don't have a phone card and needed data for any reason, there is free wifi at Place des Cocotiers.

10. Camping

Camping sites are cheapest but you'll have to bring your own tent. I stayed in a gite - a small, very modest hotel and booked their safari tent lodging.

11. Others

If you own a snorkelling set, bring along so you don't have to hire one. If you are going to Ile des Pins, pack along reef shoes if you have one.

12. Water

I stayed in airbnb in Noumea so I tried to boil water for consumption. I had tap water when I was in Ile des Pins as I booked a safari tent. According to Lonely Planet, published Dec 2016, water is safe to drink throughout New Caledonia except on Ouvéa.

13. Language

I can't speak French but most of the locals speak English. I tried to at least learn to say, "Bonjour, parlez-vous anglais?" and hope for the best.

Side note: When will the app be updated?

Saturday, October 14, 2023

New Caledonia: A French territory in the South Pacific

New Caledonia is an overseas territory of France, located in the South Pacific. New Caledonia is about 1,500 km east of Australia. The country is made up of islands, the main island being Grande Terre. Loyalty Islands of Mare, Lifou and Ouvea are 3 islands in a line, about 100km off the east coast of Grande Terre. Another island - Isle des Pins is 110km southeast of Noumea.

Most of my flights are to the left of Australia but this round it was to the right. There used to be direct flight from Melbourne but it probably has been discontinued. On my way there, I had a transit in Sydney and a transit in Brisbane on my way back. Not intentionally but based on cheapest flight fare. My initial flight that was scheduled to arrive in the evening in Noumea got cancelled and I was rescheduled on a later flight that day.

I am not a big beach holiday person so this was a bit out of the norm country of choice to visit to. However, it checked the boxes of short flights (disregarding transit), short holiday, I've not been and flight ticket sales. New Caledonia, however, is not a cheap holiday destination.

The itinerary is very simple, just a week in Noumea and Ile des Pins. I stayed in Airbnbs (Motor Pool before Ile des Pins and Val Plaisance after) in Noumea and a gite in Ile des Pins. The other place I would want to visit in New Caledonia that I didn't would be The Heart of Voh.

M: morning, E: evening, N: Night

22/04, Day 00 - Sydney, arrived in Noumea* at night

23/04, Day 01 - Noumea*, walking around Central Noumea

24/04, Day 02 - Noumea*, hiking at Mont Dore

25/04, Day 03 - Noumea*, visit Tjibaou Cultural Centre and Museum of World War II

26/04, Day 04 - Flight to Ile des Pins* (Gite Nataiwatch)

27/04, Day 05 - Ile des Pins*

28/04, Day 06 - Flight back to Noumea*

29/04, Day 07 - Noumea*, around Anse Vata

30/04, Day 08 - Flight back to Melbourne

*referring to overnight stay

Side note: Now I understand why people would return to Mayday's concert again & again.

Sunday, October 8, 2023

Perth: Jigoro, Kumo Desserts and CBD

Hifumiya by day, Jigoro by night. I've been to Hifumiya during one of my visits to Perth but didn't realise by night, the udon shop transformed into an izakaya. We went out for dinner to celebrate sis's birthday. I find their menu very cute. The kids find ramune very interesting.

Assorted pickles

Chef's choice

Mentaiko dashimaki

Chicken karaage

Flaked salmon chazuke

Sashimi

Kumo Desserts

When I visited Kumo Desserts in Perth, they haven't had an outlet in Melbourne yet but they have recently opened up in Melbourne. Their souffle pancakes are quite big portion so best to share. There was a queue when we arrived but luckily we didn't have to wait too long, maybe about 15-20 minutes and we got an outdoor seating.

I know cheese foam has been around for a long time but I have not tried it. This creamy hojicha came with cheese foam, and it was tasty.