Northern Europe: Finland - Helsinki in a day

We fly from Stockholm to Helsinki even though we are aware that overnight ferry is a popular mode of transport. We planned for a day trip to Tallinn by ferry, also overnight Stockholm - Helsinki ferry usually departs at around 4:45pm and arrive the next day at 10:30am. Ferries to Tallinn depart before 10:30am and we have an overnight train on the other day we have in Helsinki. The other factor in play was possibility of sea sickness. 

Getting out of Helsinki Airport to our accommodation in Helsinki was easy. We each bought an ABC zone ticket, €4.10 per person and ABC zone single ticket is valid for 90 minutes, enough time for us to get a tram transfer from city center to the hotel. Up till this point, we haven't seen any snow fall yet in this trip. A lot of rain but no snow. 

We went to Talliin the next day on arrival in Helsinki but we have till evening the day after to roam around Helsinki. Prior to the trip, we only have 4 items in things to do - Suomenlinna, Uspenski Cathedral, Helsinki Cathedral and Porvoo. We managed 3 out of 4 as Porvoo is an hour away by train. 

We got a day ticket on arrival back from Tallinn, the validity of the ticket is 24 hours so it would end right when we need to get to the train station the next day. 

Helsinki Cathedral

Helsinki Cathedral is located in the centre of Helsinki at Senate Square. It was originally built from 1830 to 1852 as a tribute to the Grand Duke of Finland at the time, Tsar Nicholas I of Russia. So it was previously known as St Nicholas's Church but the name was changed in 1917 after the independence of Finland. 

It was the nearest stop to get to Suomenlinna ferry from our hotel in Helsinki so naturally, we walked over to have a look before walking towards Suomenlinna ferry. 

After Suomenlinna

Before Suomenlinna

Uspenski Cathedral

Not far from Helsinki Cathedral, at the hill on the Katajanokka district lies the Uspenski Cathedral. This is the main cathedral of the Orthodox Parish of Helsinki. The red brick facade is striking and noticable even when you are standing around Senate Square. 

Suomenlinna

Suomenlinna is a sea fortress, founded in 1748 is one of the most popular attractionsin Finland and is a world heritage site. Getting to Suomenlinna is one of part of the fun as it is only accessible by water. At the time of our visit, part of the water surface was covered by ice, despite cold, it was fun looking at the ship cutting through the ice.

The ferry schedule is not very frequent, so best to take a note of the return ferry time as not to wait too long, like us. There are eateries in Suomenlinna but we just got a bun and a banana from a store to tie us through lunch time. 

On return from Suomenlinna, we wandered around the city before grabbing an early pizza dinner then went back to the hotel to collect our bags. We took an overnight train to Rovaniemi. 

Side note: I'm told Milky bar Milo is good...

Northern Europe: Estonia - Day trip to Tallinn from Helsinki by ferry

We stayed at Radisson Blu Seaside Hotel in Helsinki which is near to the ferry terminal (West Harbour T2) to Tallinn - 10 minutes by tram or 20 minutes by foot. Unfortunately we found out that there isn't any ticket machine at the tram stop nearest to us so we walked to the ferry terminal. The point of the story is - not all tram stop has a ticket machine. 

This is afterall international border crossing from Finland to Estonia, so best to carry along the necessary documents like passport, though we have not been asked to show our passports. 

Getting to Tallinn

The cheapest ferry ticket we found is via Eckerö Line at the time of our travel. Single Helsinki - Tallinn return adult ticket cost €19. Ferry departed Helsinki at 09:00, arriving Tallinn at 11:15. Return ferry departed Tallinn at 18:30, arriving back in Helsinki at 21:00. 

We bought our ticket online on arrival in Helsinki, the evening just a day prior. Latest boarding time was 30 minutes before departure. The process was simple, just needed to scan the electronic ticket, pass the turnstill, get into the ferry and find a seat to your preference. 

We saw some comfy seats at one of the many cafes which turned out to be one that hosted bingo games midway. Participation was optional. 

Arriving in Tallinn

The ferry docked at Vanasadam Old City Harbour. There were buses to the Tallinn Old Town but most people walked. We followed the rest of the visitors on foot, it was an easy stroll of about 20 minutes. 

Tallinn Old Town (Tallinna vanalinn)

The Old Town of Tallinn is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tallinn's Old Town is divided into 2 parts - "Lower town" and "Upper Town (Toompea). 

Even before stepping inside the Old Town, St. Olaf Church (Oleviste kirik) is the first thing you'll see on coming up to the Old Town. The church was the tallest building in the world back in 1549 to 1625.

Old Town Walls

Rounding Tallinn's Old Town are the medieval town walls. These walls also divide the Upper Town and Lower Town. Parts of the wall's near Hellemann Tower conncting to Munkadetagune Tower is open to visitors to go up and walk along for a fee. The other prominent landmark of the Old Town Walls is the round tower - Fat Margaret Tower. 

In the middle ages when ships were the main mode of transportation, Great Coastal gate were the main entrance to the city. A tower of build near to the gate to protect the town from attaack and has a diameter of 25 metres and height of 20 metres. This tower was nicknamed Fat Margaret and currently house the Maritime Museum of Tallinn and an observation deck at the top. 

Walking from the ferry terminal will bring one to the Tallinn Old Town will bring one to enter the via the Great Coastal Gate (Suur Rannavärav). 

As you entered the gate into Tallinn's Old Town, the Lower town features quaint, meadering cobblestone streets and gabled houses. 

Town Hall Square

Tallinn's Town Hall Square is the center of this old town since the Middle ages. In winter it houses Tallinn's Christmas market and we were very lucky that in during our visit, this Christmas market runs end of November till early January. It is one of the few Christmas markets that are run passed actual Christmas day. 

Just behind the beautiful Christmas tree is the Town Hall building, built between 1402 and 1404. At the end of the square is the Raeapteek, the oldest pharmacist in Tallinn and one of the oldest in Europe.  

St. Nicholas Church (Niguliste kirik)

Other noticable towers emerging from the rest of the city's rooftops is the spire of St. Nicholas Church. This church from the 13th centur was almost completely destroyed during World War II. It was restored and now is the home of the Niguliste Museum. It was the prominent spire that prompted the photo below as well. We didn't enter the church itself. 

Upper Town - Toompea

Tallinn's Upper Town is perched upon a hill and acessible via Pikk Jalg, or through a gap in the town halls past Kiek in de Kök Tower. Pikk Jalg appears to be translated to Long Boot is a narrowish cobblestone walkway. 

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

One of Tallinn's most iconic landmarks, the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral marked your arrival to Toompea as this church was completed in 1900 sits on top of the Toompea Hill. This Russian Orthodox church dates back to the old Russian empire and comprises 11 bells including Tallinn's largest bell weighing 15 tonnes. 

Kiek in de Kök 

Kiek in de Kök Fortification Museum forms a museum complex over 500 metres long that includes four towers - Kiek in de Kök, Maiden's Tower, Tallitorn Tower, and the Gate Tower of the Short Leg (Lühikese jala väravatorn). The fortification museum also includes access to underground bastion passages and exhibition on overview of past warfare. Tickets allows access to go up to the towers and the walk between them. 

In front of this museum complex is the Danish King's Garden. Found this page that provides some info to as why it is named Danish King's Garden. 

There are also a couple of viewing platforms to check out - Kohtuotsa viewing platform and Patkuli viewing platform. 

We packed breakfast and ate them onboard ferry to Tallinn and stopped for lunch in Tallinn. Sis listed down a pancake bar to try in Tallinn - Kompressor but were not feeling pancakes and wanted more hot food. We saw a Ukrainian restaurant - Odessa nearby to where we were then and popped in for lunch. Not in picture was Ukrainian red borsch with sour cream and buns "pampushka", and somewhat in photo - glögg. Food was very delicious and hearty. 

Vareniki stuffed with flounder with parsley, €11.50

Chicken kyiv with baked potatoes and cracklings, €17.50

We were not organised enough to have also packed dinner, so we got sandwiches to share onboard and slept most of the trip back. Most people stocked up on alcohol from Tallinn to bring back to Helsinki though. It finally snowed when we arrived back to Helsinki. 

Side note: Other charming small street is St Catherine's Passage (Katariina käik)

Northern Europe: Sweden - Stockholm around Christmas period

We arrived in Stockholm at noon on Christmas Day. There are plenty of options to get to the city center, from bus to trains. After weighing the cost, time of travel and convenience, we opted to take a taxi (SEK 695). I don't know how things pan out that we ended up walking everywhere once we get to the Gamla Stan area from the airport. We have 2 full days in Stockholm, a half on the day we landed and another half before we departed. 

As we landed on Christmas Day itself, we have missed the Stockholm Christmas Market. Here are the things we did, saw or ate when we were there. 

Gamla Stan

Gamla Stan, or the Old Town is Stockhom's original city centre. The buildings are from 1600s and 1700s. There were closed stalls for the Christmas Market for a few days, and were only removed a day before we left Stockholm. The removal process took pretty much the whole day. Most of the shops here are cafes, restaurants, tourist shops, studios and galleries. 

Järnpojke 

Järnpojke or Iron Boy is the smallest public monument in Stockholm at 15 cm by Liss Eriksson. It is within the Gamla Stan, at the backyard of the Finnish Church. 

The Royal Palace

Sweden's Royal Palace is one of the Europe's largest palace and the official residence of The King's residence. There is changing of the Royal Guards ceremony at the palace in the palace outer courtyard, lasting for about 40 minutes. We didn't enter for visit.

Riksdagshuset (Parliament House)

The Parliament House is open to public who are interested to attend a debate, visit or public hearing. The building is huge and you won't miss it. You might not realised it but won't miss it. 

We stood in front of a closed door of a building to re-wrap our scarves so we are not out in the wind. A guard walked over from another building to ask us not to stand in front of the door. At that time, we didn't realise the door we were at is part of the parliament building. So yep - one might not realise, but won't miss it. 

Skansen

World's oldest open-air museum showcasing Sweden's houses and farmsteads from every part of the country. This museum also houses Nordic wildlife and Baltic Sea Science Center. The staffs working in the museum old houses replies questions in role play mode when we asked questions. It is also open every day, all year round, albeit some difference in opening hours. 

We spent Boxing Day at Skansen. There was Christmas related program during the holiday period, example exhibit of family Christmas dinner in the houses and farmsteads. Admission fees differs depending on time of visit. Admission was SEK 220 per person for us. 

Hötorgshallen

The other market we have on our list to visit was Östermalms Saluhall but sis said that Hötorgshallen is more affordable and has a famous fish soup place. So we ended up in Hötorgshallen. There was no kitchen facilities in our accommodation in Stockholm so we didn't get any of the fresh food from the market. We, however, did make it to the fish soup place for lunch - Kajsas Fisk.

There is a directory of the shops in the market. We ordered Fisksoppa (fish soup with prawns mussels and aioli; stekt stromming (fried strömming with remoulade or mustard sauce & mashed potatoes), laxtoast (smoked salmon toast with mustard sauce and mixed salad. Bread and simple salad are free flow. All the dishes were very tasty. There was a picture of what's inside the soup, just not in my camera because I was the one in charged of scooping the soup. 

Fisksoppa, SEK 130

Stekt stromming, SEK 115

Laxtoast, SEK 120

  

Swedish Christmas Plate

Sis and I were insistent that we have a Swedish Christms dinner and finally found out that was within budget and available on or after actual Christmas day. We wanted to go on Christmas Day itself but they were closing when we returned a short walk. It wasn't late, maybe around 6ish but it was a Christmas Day after all. We returned to the same shop on Boxing Day, and luckily they still serve the Christmas Plate. 

Components in the Christmas Plate were 2 kinds of herring, cold smoked salmon, homemade meatballs, beetroot salad, Swedish "Skagenröra" (shrimp salad), cheese from northern Sweden, boiled potatoes, egg, hard bread, onion and sourcream, SEK 295. 

We also ordered a pasta dish to share - fillet of pork with mushrooms in a creamy truffle sauce, SEK 185. 

Christmas Plate, SEK 295; pasta SEK 185

Glögg

Glögg is Swedish's version of mulled wine, a popular drink during the Christmas season. Usually served with raisins and almonds. Very tasty, warm and cosy on a white Christmas. Needless to say we had more than once. 

Kanelbulle

Kanelbulle (in plural - Kanelbullar) is Swedish cinnamon bun, probably the most famous one pastry in Sweden. They are mostly seen in a knot form than the usually rolled out cinnamon roll. I wonder why the ones found in Ikea are not knot form. I find them less sweet, possibly because they are not topped with sugar icing. There are also cardamon buns which are also very popular but we didn't try. 

Saffransbulle

Saffransbulle (in plural - saffransbullar) are sweet yeast rolls usually served the Christmas season are flavoured with golden saffron and dark raisins. We got one with almond filling the first round, and subsequent time, we got the ones shapped into 'Lucia cat' (lussekatt). 

Semla

You would probably realised by now that we take fika seriously. Haha. Even though during the time of our visit doesn't coincide with Lent or Shrove Tuesday, but nowadays semla (plural - semlor) can be found after Christmas, which is almost like when you would see hot cross buns showing up in Australia. Semla is a flavoured cardamon bun, filled with almond paste and whipped cream. 

We got one from Bröd & Salt to try, along with a pistachio latte. The filling was added upon order but it was a small bakery with only 1 small bench outside which was occupied. We had to make our way back to the hostel to pick up our bags before going to the airport so we ate at the hostel. 

Swedish meatballs 

I don't know why I thought Ikea would be different in Sweden, they are not much of difference, except they do takeaway. We actually got the meatballs from Ikea. Ordering was done via kiosks, and we selected the takeaway option, collected our food.  

Julmust

On our walk back after Ikea meatballs takeaway, we saw Julmust on sale which means we got one to try. Julmust is a non-alcoholic Christmas soda as jul is the Swedish word for Christmas. It tasted like cola-malt-rootbeer.  

I thought it was interesting to be in Sweden during Christmas period and I enjoyed some traditional Swedish Christmas food. 

Side note: Detective Conan: Black Iron Submarine