Türkiye: Long winded route to Istanbul via Bandirma

I thought I read about this route on Lonely Planet guidebook but it is nowhere to be found when I looked it up again. Anyway, I did a 'scenic' route from Çanakkale to Istanbul, via Bandirma. Bus from Çanakkale to Bandirma at 10:30am, TL 135. Bus journey took 2 hours 45 minutes. 

I thought it would be fun to take a ferry across the Sea of Marmara, plus I didn't plan to take a Bosphorus Cruise, and that Yenikapi ferry terminal is about 35 mins by foot to the accommodation that I booked in Istanbul. 

On arriving in Bandirma, I cabbed to ido ferry port to get a ticket to Istanbul. Ferry, TL 252, was scheduled at 3:30pm and took about 2 hours 45 mins to reached Yenikapi. 

I was told to arrive at 3pm to board the ferry. One has to pass through a security check to buy a ferry ticket. I thought I misunderstood and almost walked out of the building to check but a grumpy looking security indicated that I needed to pass the security check. There was a leave luggage service outside of the main building. It was located on the left when you exit the main building (i.e. on the left when facing outside, with the main building behind you.) I was charged TL20 for my backpack. 

Bandirma, is a coastal city, sitting by the Sea of Marmara. It houses the southern terminus for fast catamaran to and fro Istanbul. I got some spare time between my bus-ferry transfer, so after sorting out the logistics, I went to look for lunch, walked around the city and along the waters. 

Don't know what I was thinking when I took the photo but I walked in to a fast food looking doner shop and had a chicken doner meal with chips and Ayran (Turkish yoghurt drink).

Side note: Such a lazy weather day

Türkiye: Of Çanakkale, Troy and Gallipoli Peninsula

Another bus ride (TL165), this time 3+ hours got me to Çanakkale. I got to Ayvalık bus station by taxi, based on recommendation from the guesthouse. I took the 13:01 bus and was armed with Ayvalık toast for lunch. I also cabbed from the Çanakkale bus station to the pansiyon also on advice from the pansiyon staff. 

In Çanakkale

For this stop, I signed up for a day tour that covers both Troy and Gallipoli Peninsula. The morning half of the tour covers Troy, then we took a ferry to the Gallipoli Peninsula, had lunch and continued the tour. There were less than 10 pax in the Troy tour but a full van (maybe 15 people) in the Gallipoli tour. Only 2 other Australian boys and me joined both tours. 

Çanakkale

Good stroll along the Çanakkale waterfront promenade

Çanakkale means "pottery castle" and the town was once a centre for the production of high quality kaolin for a flourishing ceramics industry. Today this type of clay is important but Çanakkale made vitreous enamel ware remains as one of Turkey's top export earners. 

Troy

This area was first inhabited during the early Bronze Age (late 4th millennium BC). The walled cities are divided from Troy I to Troy IX till around AD 500. The Trojan War was believed to occurred in Troy VII. The city was abandoned by the end of the 2nd millennium BC but reoccupied by Greek settlers in the 8th century BC (Troy VIII). It was identified by the Romans as the fabled city of Homer and Troy prospered under Roman rule. It was abandoned in the 9th century and reoccupied in the later Byzantine period and then deserted in the Ottoman period. 

Many historians doubted the existence of ancient Troy but a German businessman Heinriich Schliemanna was convinced of its existence and received permission from the Ottoman government to excavate a hill near the village of Hisarlik, a previously identified site for the city. Part of the treasures found were smuggled out of the Ottoman Empire and no displayed in a museum in Moscow.

Archaelogists identified the remains of nine separate Troys, where a series of settlements built one of top of another over the course of 2500 years. The guide mentioned that the stones used were different across the different Troy. Excavations work are still ongoing at the site. 

The Gallipoli Campaign 1915-16

Pardon the unintentional selfie

At the initial outbreak of WWI, the Ottomans remained neutral but in October 1914 they joined the Central Powers and closed the Dardanelles, blocking the Allies' major supply route between Britain, France and their ally Russia. 

Allied leaders developed a plan to seize the Dandanelles (the narrowest point of Strait of Çanakkale so that would give them control of Constantinople (current day Istanbul). At the dawn on 25 April 1915, British and French troops landed at Kum Kale near Çanakkale . Further north, a large force of ANZACs (Australia and New Zealand Army Corps) came ashore but met dogged opposition from the Turkish defenders. 

After nine months of ferocious combat but little headway, the Allied forces withdrew in December 1915 and January 1916. The Allied troops landed in a sector where they faced Lieutenant Colonel Mustafa Kemal. 

Gallipoli Peninsula

Both tours were good but the Gallipoli Peninsula is better. I felt like I have attended a great lecture on history. One of the earlier stops begin at Anzac Cove, the narrow stretch of sand beneath and just south of the Ariburnu cliffs where the Allied landed on 25 April 1915. Other stops included Johnston's Jolly, and the Nek and Walker’s Ridge. Plus, honor those who died at Ari Burnu, the Beach Cemetery, Lone Pine Cemetery, the Turkish Memorial and Chunuk-Bair. 

Anzac Cove

Cliff at Anzac Cove

 

Ari Burnu cemetery

Lone Pine

Monument of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk at Chunuk Bair Cemetery

Side note: Anzac Day 25th April

Türkiye: A brief stop in Ayvalık

I initially wanted to get an earlier bus to Ayvalık but I accidentally asked for a ticket that departs at 12:25pm. Commute time was about 3 hours 50 mins, and I paid TL197. Turned out nicely that I have time to visit the Ephesus Museum. I also forgot to pack lunch this round but I did have a free breakfast from the hotel and figs from Casa Kallinos' owner. I checked out earlier from the hotel that I stayed in, the one along the highway. The kind staff from the bus ticket counter allowed me to deposit my backpack till bus departure time. 

Needless to say I was starving by the time I arrived in Ayvalık. I managed to ask a couple of people as to which bus I could take to get to town. It was a little tricky as the ones I approached didn't speak English and I don't speak Turkish. I did show them the address I wanted to get to. Someone pointed me to a bus, he said something to the bus driver after I showed him the hotel address, I got on and paid TL5. I don't know if that was the actual bus fare because credit card didn't work but the driver didn't give me any change. 

I loaded up Google maps and the bus was going to the opposite direction of where I wanted to get to but I figured, let's have a bit more faith. If I ended up too far, I could get off and get a taxi. Good news was I didn't have to, the bus did go by where the hotel was located. 

After I checked in, I got a whatsapp message from the hotel that provided me a list of places of interest and eating places. I picked one randomly that mentioned fish because I wanted to try papalina (European sprat) which is a speciality in Ayvalık. 

On arrival in Ayvalık, I wasn't impressed. All I could see was a very high traffic main road to a port town, not particularly remarkable. As I started to search for the restaurant that I short-listed, I realised this port town has its charm. Wandering a block or two from the main road, lies an old Greek village with colourful shuttered doors, cafes, eating places, drinking places, etc. 

Back to my hunt of papalina, my search of the shortlisted restaurant was unsuccessful. I gave up after going around in circles for three times and randomly walked in to a shop that has a very unassuming sign board that mentioned food in the front of a shop. I looked inside and 2 tables were occupied and all were drinking some alcoholic beverage. 

It has just passed 6pm but nobody was eating. I walked in and asked, "Are you open for dinner?" 

They were, and as a bonus, I was greeted by a dashing waiter, whose vibes reminded me of Tom Hiddleston. 

I asked him, "It's dinner time right? How come nobody is eating?" He laughed, then said, "Welcome to Ayvalık." 

I chose a seat closest to the water and ordered papalina (of course), a salad for vege quota and orange juice. 

The dishes were great but it was stressful eating fishes in Türkiye - there were always cats wandering around. 

I was accompanied by spectacular sunset. 

I asked for the bill after the sun had set. I walked passed the next table to pay at the counter, it so happened the next table was occupied by the owner of the eatery who then invited me to have a drink. Haha. Welcome to Ayvalık I guess. I had a Raki (of course) served with chilled water. The waitstaff also brought out melon and feta - must have with Raki. 

I wasn't in Ayvalık for a long time, just enough time to wander around a little and got Ayvalık toast. 

I definitely didn't have enough time in Ayvalık, especially since I didn't even made it to Cunda. 

Side note: Restaurant name - Muhteremin Yeri, Sardalya Balik Evi, Fevzipasa Mh. Muhabbet Sk Ataturk Bulv 2 Ara No: 3 (Eski Bilfern Dersanesi) Ayvalik

Türkiye: Selçuk and Ephesus

I walked to the central Bodrum bus station, got on a bus and returned to main but station. Bus ticket can be paid with credit card, TL5. There were limited option of buses from Bodrum to Selçuk. My ticket departed Bodrum at 5:30pm, and the journey took about 3+ hours, TL120. 

I had lunch but wasn't organise enough to pack dinner or snack. I got a packet of biscuit and one of those cake in a packet from a service station on one of the toilet breaks. I rushed but unfortunately was the last person who walked to the bus. Last person who walked to the bus but not the last one who got on it because all the smokers were standing around the bus and getting their dose of cigarettes. So I wasn't late, maybe they were even hoping I took longer. I thought the conductor would do a round of head count as I saw they were marking on a piece of paper but one of the travellers I met told me that he almost got left behind when he took longer in the bathroom. Luckily his friend was on the bus. 

On arrival in Selçuk, I got my next bus ticket and walked to the hotel that I have made reservation. As I followed the route on Google maps, I felt that I have made a mistake with my choice of accommodation. When I was researching on Selçuk, I read that it was a nice place to walk around but my walk to the hotel were along a highway. I suspect maps must've prompted the Ephesus Archaeological Museum instead of the Ephesus Archaeological Site when I typed direction from Ephesus. Rookie mistake, especially so many of the shops have reference to the word Ephesus. 

From the initial 1km or so walk that I thought I have to make to Ephesus, it turned into 4km. I was told there are buses but I didn't seem to notice any on my walk but maps probably led me on a non bus route trail. 

Non-bus route like this...

I had 1.5 days in Selçuk and the only item on my itinerary was Ephesus Ancient City, which I gathered was more than enough. I would probably also have enough time to make a trip to Sirince, which I didn't end up going but were raved by the Australian boys I met later in Çanakkale.

On my walk to Ephesus

My impression is that Turkish were super friendly. Usually my conversation with strangers stopped at greetings of good morning, but somehow the conversations I had with Turkish went longer. The reason I didn't have enough time to trek to Sirince was the longer than expected conversations I had with the locals, watching them playing backgammon and they tried to teach me unsuccessfully, they offered me tea, and Turkish coffees, dinner and Raki drinks and I tried to repay with some baklavas. This was when I realised when Turkishs buy baklava, they buy a lot! 

Although I didn't make it to Sirince, I did make it to Ephesus. 

Ephesus

Ephesus or Efes as it is known in Turkish is one of the greatest ruined city in the Western world. A Greek city was first built here in about 1000 BC. The city we see today was founded in the 4th century BC by Lysimachu, Alexander the Great's successor. Ephesus became the chief port of the Aegean under the Romans. It was also mentioned that Ephesus attracted Christian settlers, including St John, who supposedly settled here with the Virgin Mary after the death of Jesus and wrote his gospel here. 

I got a combined ticket, TL350 that covers entrance to the archaeological site, terrace houses, museum and Basilica of St. John. The main attraction that I want to go was the Terrace Houses but the ticket came in a bundle, single entry but valid for 72 hours from date of purchase. 

I entered via the Upper Gate (Magnesian Gate), just because the route I took is nearest to this gate. Here are some more notable sights. 

Temple of Hadrian

It was impossible to get a shot of the whole of the door without anyone standing in front of it, at least at the time of my visit. Temple of Hadrian was built to honour a visit by Emperor Hadrian in AD 123. The relief marble on the facade portrays mythical gods and goddesses. 

Terraced Houses

This was a roofed complex so the colour of the photos are more of yellowish hues. In this complex, there are 7 well-preserved Roman homes built on three terraces. Terraced Houses are homes of wealthy locals. It gives oe a glimpse into the everyday lives of ancient Ephesians. 

It was a one-way in and one-way out complex, on existing the area, one get an elevated view of Ephesus. 

Library of Celsus

The third largest libarry in the ancient world (after Alexandria and Pergamum), it was designed to protect its 12,000 scrolls from extremes of temperature and moisture. This library dated from early 2nd century AD with facades of the Four Virtues. From left to right are Sophia (Wisdome), Arete (Goodness), Ennoia (Thought) and Episteme (Knowledge).

Theatre

Said to be carved into the flank of Mount Pion during the Hellenistic period. It was renovated later by the Romans. 

Grotto of the Seven Sleepers

After exiting the Ephesus, I walked to the Grotto of the Seven Sleepers. Legend has it that seven young legendary Christians who lived in the reign of Emperor Decius around 250 AD refused to sacrifice to the temple. Defying the emperor, they hid in a cave. The young men fell asleep after awhile.

When they awoke from their sleep, they went into the town to buy food and upon paying, realised that they have slept for 200 years when the coins used to pay were from a different time. When they fell asleep again, they never woke up. 

As there are damages to the structure of the cave, entrance is prohibited. 

The Basilica of St. John

The youngest of the 12 Apostles of Jesus, St John arrived at Ephesus (known as Asia Minor then) after leaving Jerusalem to avoid prosecution after the death of Jesus. It is believed that he brought Virgin Mary ("Meryem" in the Koran)  with him. It is believed that St John wrote the book "Book of Revelation" in or around Ephesus except for the time when he was exiled on a nearby island of Patmos. 

Upon his death in Ephesus, a memorial monument was erected over his grave at the foot of Ayasuluk Hill. In the 4th century, a great basilica was built over St John's tomb by Roman emperor, Constantine. Later in the 6th century, an even more magnificient basilica was built over the earlier structure by Roman emperor Justinian. 

 

Ayasuluk Fortress

This fortress is accessible with the same St. John of Basilica ticket, it kind of is within the same compund. Excavations done showed that there were castles on Ayasuluk Hill back in the Neolithic age. 

Isa Bey Camii

This post-Seljuk/pre-Ottoman mosque can be found at the southern base of Ayasuluk Hill. Said to be built in 1375. It wasn't open at the time of my visit which was in the morning, and I can't read to understand the sign put up. Photos were taken from outside the gate. 

After leaving the mosque, the plan was to visit the Temple of Artemis and then the Ephesus Museum before leaving Selçuk. The thing I found out about walking in Selçuk was everybody was so friendly that I kept on being stopped in my tracks. 

Someone said hi, I responded by a good morning. He asked if I was going to the Ephesus, I said no, but going to the Temple of Artemis. It went on to him wanting to introduce one of his guest from Australia to me who happened to be having a coffee at the coutyard of his hotel - Casa Kallinos. This then proceeded to him inviting me to have breakfast which I declined as I already had breakfast at the hotel, then he brought me promegranate juice and tea, also gave me a fresh fig to take away as someone had just delivered figs to his hotel. 

Temple of Artemis

Taken from Basilica of St. John

No stork spotted

I visited this the morning before I left Selçuk, giving a full day to roam around Ephesus. On my walk to Ephesus, one of the locals struck a conversation with me. He told me he was heading to the Temple of Artermis and he sells books for work. At a turning, he went on his way to the Temple of Artermis and I continued to Ephesus. 

The next day, when I arrived at the Temple of Artemis, the very same person came to approach me and said hi. He was selling souvenir books! It also means that I am super recognisable. 

I was told that the spot where this single column is found wasn't the original locatoin for the initial temple. The initial temple was maybe about 500 metres away. I am not sure if this is true as I can't seem to find anything that mentioned this. 

Ephesus Museum

I also made it to the Ephesus Museum, since I have already paid for it. It was an informative museum though I was a little surprise that it was smaller than what I expected. I even backtracked a little to make sure I didn't miss any room. 

Side note: I have higher affinity to Ephesus' Turkish name of Efes.