Nagasaki 長崎: A rainy day in Nagasaki

Bright and sunny the next day

I lied, it was hardly a day. By the time I arrived in Nagasaki it was noon time. It started raining shortly after I got on the bus from Fukuoka Airport and was still pouring when I arrived in Nagasaki. I had a brief conversation with a woman who was travelling with her husband while we were waiting for the in Kurokawa Onsen bus stop. She told me that there was a song about rain and Nagasaki when I said it was raining when I was in Nagasaki. She couldn't remember the name of the song but when I googled, probably it was this one that she meant - 長崎は今日も雨だった (Nagasaki wa kyo mo ame datta) by Kiyoshi Maekawa, translated as "Nagasaki also rained today".

I had ideas of champon lunch, snacks of kasutera, pre-dinner of sasebo burger and then dinner of saraudon. Plans of tramming to Peace Park and strolled my way to Oura Church area.

Ahem. Didn't really happen. Didn't even make it to the Peace Park even though I went to Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum as it was still raining quite heavily.

Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum
Getting here by streetcar: Atomic Bomb Museum stop (20) on line 1 (blue) or 3 (red). It's about 5 minutes walk from there. There are signs around to indicate which direction to head to.
Entrance fee: ¥200

A uranium atomic bomb exploded over Hiroshima on 6th August 1945 at 8:15am.

3 days later on 9th August 1945, Bockscar (name of the US Army Air Forces B-29 bomber) left Tinian Island carrying the Fat Man nuclear weapon. The bomber circled over Kokura three times but changed course for Nagasaki due to smoke cover. Visibility was also poor over Nagasaki and the crew considered to return to base due to dwindling fuel. The clouds broke and a plutonium atomic bomb was released over the city at 11:02am.

This is Fat Man, the atomic bomb that was dropped on Nagasaki. It was given the nickname "Fat Man" because of its shape, length 3.25m, diameter 1.52m and weight of 4.5t. It had a plutonium core with explosive force equivalent to 21kt of TNT.

The museum covers the history of the event, events leading to the day, consequences after and reconstruction of Nagasaki.

Nagasaki Shinchi Chinatown
Getting here by streetcar: Shinchi Chinatown stop (31) on line 1 (blue) or 5 (green).
Entrance fee: Nil

Nagasaki Shinchi Chinatown (長崎新地中華街, Nagasaki Shinchi Chūkagai) is the oldest Chinatown in Japan. It is the quietest of any Chinatown I've been.

Quiet - like this!

Dejima (出島)
Getting here by streetcar: Dejima stop (30) on Line 1 (blue)
Entrance fee: ¥510 (I didn't pay to enter)

Dejima or literally translated as "exit island" was an artificial island built to house Portuguese residents to segregrate them from Japanese population in the Edo Period. After the Portuguese were expelled from Japan, the Dutch moved in.

Dejima is no longer an island currently but the historical structures remained. Prior to arriving in Nagasaki, I didn't realised it was a closed area and required admission fee to enter. I didn't end up going in but the the Southern Embankment Wall area can be seen from outside.

Dutch Slope or Hollander Slope (オランダ坂, Oranda-zaka)
Getting here by streetcar: Short walk from Medical Center stop (47) on Line 5 (green)
Entrance fee: Nil

In the past, non Asians were referred as Dutch by the people in Nagasaki because majority of foreigners were Dutch sailors living on Dejima. This slope was so named as it was often bustling with westerners.


Higashiyamate Western-Style House（東山手洋風住宅群）
Getting here by streetcar: 4 minutes walk from Ishibashi Stop (51) on Line 5 (Green)

These are 7 western style houses constructed mid 19th century, originally to rent to foreigners. Currently it houses preservation centre, museum, etc. It was already dark by the time I got there, so everything was closed.


View from Glover Garden (グラバー園, Glover-en)
Getting here by streetcar: 5 minutes walk from Ouratenshudo-Shita Stop (51) on Line 5 (Green)
Entrance fee: ¥610 for the garden but closed by the time of my visit. View is free :)

Thomas Glover was a Scottish trader who went to Nagasaki when Japan started to open up to the outside world. He supplied weapons to anti-shogun clans and overthrew the world's longest continuous dictatorship and ushered in Meiji restoration. Glover was remembered as one of the key influence to modern Japan. He helped in finding the shipbuilding company which later became Mitsubishi Corporation of Japan and also helped to establish the Japan Brewery Company which is now Kirin Brewery Company. Glover Garden was built in honour of this Scottish merchant.

I went up to the garden via Glover Garden Elevator.

Oura Church (大浦天主堂, Ōura Tenshudō)
Getting here by streetcar: 4 minutes walk from Ouratenshudo-Shita Stop (51) on Line 5 (Green)
Entrance fee: ¥1000

The Oura Catholic Church was constructed by 2 French priests in 1964. I read that the stained glass windows and the statue of the Virgin Mary were imported from France too. It is Japan's oldest wooden Gothic style church.

Photo taken from outside the gate...

Meganebashi or Spectacles Bridge (眼鏡橋)
Named so from it's resemblance to a pair of spectacles when reflected on the river water. The bridge was originally built in 1634, but repaied with recovered stones in 1982.


I didn't end up eating most of the food that I wanted to try but I did have champon, just not at where I initially go. I went in a random shop in Chinatown. This is the mini version, ¥500. Popular restaurants to have this dish were Shikairō (四海楼) and Horaiken Bekkan.

I also wanted to try kasutera from Shōkandō under the recommendations of my friends from Japanese lessons in the past. They are foodies and travel to Japan annually! I missed the opening hours of Shōkandō and unfortunately I don't think they have other branches except the one shop near Meganebashi. I did however, bought 3 boxes (2 plain, 1 matcha) from Bunmeido from one of their branch in Fukuoka before I travelled out of Kyushu.

There are definitely more things to explore, see and eat in Nagasaki which I missed :( Well, guess I'll have to go back again. :)


P/S: I walked from Chinatown to Oura Church.

Side note: Detective Conan episode 678-679

Nagasaki 長崎: Transport, Stay and Orientation

About to land in Fukuoka Airport

My travel dates weren't made to coincide with cherry blossoms as I was aware that it was likely too late for it especially since I was heading to Kyushu. However, when I noticed that I could possibly made it to see some wisterias, I left Fukuoka as my last stop.

Getting to Nagasaki from Fukuoka Airport
I decided to take the bus from the international terminal that would go all the way to Nagasaki city bus terminal. I took the 11:02 bus run by Nishitetsu, ¥2,570 and arrived in Nagasaki after 151 minutes. Bus information center where I bought my ticket was just right across when the arrival gate, and bus stop was outside. Bus to Nagasaki stops at bus stop 3.

Alternatively, if you prefer the train, can take the free bus shuttle to the domestic terminal, followed by a subway (Kuko Line) to the Hakata Station, then shinkansen. Or a bus to Hakata Station before transferring to the shinkansen at Hakata Station.

Nagasaki Streetcar
Nagasaki bus terminal isn't far from the train station, somewhat across the road. Not literally across but you can actually see it so won't get lost. I crossed over to the train station, collected my JR Northern Kyushu 5-day Pass and made reservations for the trains that I wanted. Opposite the JR train office is the tourist information office where I bought a One-Day Pass for Streetcar for ¥500. One trip on the streetcar is at a fixed rate of ¥130. The price was recently revised, an increase from ¥120 for adult.

The pass is a tri-fold pamphlet and it shows the full streetcar map route when unfold. It is a bit big but I like the idea that I don't have to fumble through another piece of map. Get on the streetcar from the rear door, exit from the front and show the driver the pass before getting off.

When folded up

HafH Sai
It took me awhile to remember the name for this hostel. I had to look up the name every single time I wanted to do a search till when I got to Nagasaki and saw that HafH means Home away from Home. It is mentioned on their website but I must've missed it.

It is based on co-working space concept. The place is comfortable and modern. There's a cafe on the first floor (Japanese don't use ground floor) and I was given a coupon to redeem my breakfast. I was assigned to the second floor. On their website, it is mentioned that second floor is for short stay users.

Living area on second floor

Living area on third floor

I was assigned to an upper bunk bed, the one in the middle. Although the photo looks like it is a capsule but the top is not closed. I like that hostels in Japan usually comes with a separate "living area", in this case there there's a curtain even though it is a dorm. There were open shelves inside and one with a door that could be locked. The locked cupboard is big enough for me to stuff my backpack in. It was equipped with a reading light and two power outlets.

I was in the upper middle cabin

The right side from the "opening hole"

The left side. Pardon the messiness

Great location with 2 tram stops on different line within walking distance. I took Line 3 (Red) from Nagasaki Station to Civic Hall (stop 45) and walked to the hostel. The walk was less than 10 minutes. An even nearer tram stop is the Meganebashi Bridge (stop 37) on Line 4 (yellow) and 5 (green). Many cafes around and Bellenade Shopping Arcade is just across the street diagonally.

If I am to be pedantic, climbing out needs a bit to get used to as the steps were to the side. I didn't fall but hands and legs coordination felt a little weird especially considering I'm kind of clumsy to begin with. Another thing was the room lock. Each time someone opens and closes the door, it's auto lock function includes a melody to indicate that. Imagine if the room is full house and many people go in and out... They were very minor issues but I thought note them down. I would recommend this hostel if one is looking for a place to stay when travelling to Nagasaki.

Breakfast next morning was this. I chose chocolate croissant from 4 different types of danish pastry and coffee. It certainly looked overly chocolatey but wasn't, definitely helped that it wasn't as sweet as usual chocolate croissant too.

I initially thought it was beetroot

Side note: Should give Lune Croissanterie now that it is open in the cbd.